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Oh Shut up @denso13, absolutely no need for that. I have been contributing to this forum well before AI was even a thing. Whether you like it or not, or believe it or not, I have been doing this job for a long time. I have absolutely no need for AI, never used it nor feel the need to...

A water toby is typically the stop tap valve in the street. The pressure reading taken at the stop valve in the street will be measuring the district main supply, that will be the sustained pumped district pressure delivered by the water transporter and gives you what the mains can typically...

What kind of pipe comes into the house? Is it blue/black plastic or lead or some other pipe? Losing 0.4 bar from the street to the house is quite significant. So the mains pipe from the toby into the house may be a restriction or it has lots of bends for some reason. Losing 0.5 bar wouldn't...

With taps, the tradition fitting was either a copper tap connector and fibre washers tho some older taps also had a fluted edge to take a compression fitting with olive like yours. Push fit then had a tap connectors with rubber washers and then flexi's with flat ends. A lot of taps came with...

They are multi fit, they will take a flexi rubber seal fit, a tap connector/fibre washer fit as well as a compression/olive fit. With a rubber flexi then hand tight and half a turn should be all it needs. Water on slowly and check for leaks, if so then another nip up should do it.

It would be more this bit, the female end of the flexi pipe that connects to the inlet of the fill valve under the cistern, you may want to try and tighten. Pic 2 - That is the fill valve yes but the flexi pipe has a female connector that tightens onto the threaded shank of the fill valve...

It could be one of the 2 things, they would need 2 different approaches. If you know what you should be looking at without seeing it then it might be able to be done by feel, if you don't then you need to be able to see what you are doing that means being able to look up underneath, if there...

Looks like it's dripping down from the fill valve up in the cistern. Whether it's leaking past the seal on the fill valve itself or from the connection of the flexi pipe onto the fill valve, would need to be checked. Only way to be sure really is to take a look, sooner rather than later before...

As long as you weren't extending the waste too far and could get the fall then that would be the ideal, though the pump in the appliance should deal with a 3m drain hose no bother too, only issue with that is it may not clear the hose properly at the end of the drain, depending on how the hose...

Just get a little silicone adhesive in there, yeah the OB1 should do the job. Dry it all out thoroughly and no need to be excessive, just enough to have is squeeze out a little at the gaps and then smooth it over. Ideally let it set for a while, before any fluid is run through it.

Guess it would all be down to capacity, volumes and fan output I would guess and whether the output of the AC unit could deliver through ducting like that over distance to numerous places. Some of those whole house HVAC units are pretty big.

Does the system have a specific mag filter make? If so go with their inhibitor as that what may be in it already Any of the 3 main ones would do though - Sentinel X100 - Fernox F1 - Adey MC1(+)

Had it many times - Install this designer tubular rad please > it's the same output as the old Type 22 conventional convecting rad, so should be fine > I wouldn't recommend it, it won't heat the room the same but if that's what you want - 1 winter later - please take the tubular rad out and...

What you have linked to isn't a column radiator (rad) I'm afraid - it what is called a tubular designer rad. They look great but can struggle to heat any room of a reasonable size efficiently, it's all down to how they work. They are not convecting rads, more radiant. With radiators, experience...

Yep - To stop that then every stat would need changed. In the stats options menu, set the failsafe option (P3) to 0. How to set that will be in the manual. The client should be able to do that. Or give every stat their own batteries I guess.

I'd be tempted to suggest that they run them as normal and have them all with their own batteries, one set of batteries to power multiples of these stats would probably be used up in no time, That being said, that many stats is a heck of a lot of batteries which may one reason they did it. FYI...

Not sure why there would be any wires connected to a NEO Air as it should all be wireless, apart from the floor sensor. The NEO stats are hard wired as well as wireless but they look different to that and don't have the battery pack. Are the other stats NEO Air's too with the same cabling...

Not half :eek:

If you have done what you can and it's still nor working then whoever is in place to cover the guarantee/warranty on your new build will be the ones to call. They should be getting a qualified bod - G3 qualified for unvented as suggested - out to look at it for you.

@ johnw2 As suggested this all came out of whether it could be one reason why copper pipework was pinholing and whether plumbers should know about bonding or not. I am not sure then why so many bodies seem to specify about bonding and about how important it can be when it comes to domestic...