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There are basic requirements and content, as part of the C&G tech training that cover electrical safety and bonding is part of that. Once completed that part of the course then there is no requirement to return to update, if and when any subsequent requirements may change. So no, we don't need...

I don't think I actually said everything has to be supplementary bonded, I just said bonded, though if I did then happy to correct that. Bonding could be either main protective, say in the case of gas or water entering the building or supplementary bonding, say in bathrooms This takes away from...

All - I know that this has probably been done to death but given there doesn't seem to be a real consensus on the subject, depending on who you talk to and given changes in the latest regs and nothing recent on the forum. As a plumber/gas engineer we are taught as part of the C&G tech certs...

Seems there is a significant difference of opinion when it comes to bonding, especially after the clarification in the 18th edition and the reference in Part P specifying that all electrical work be safe and Part P specifies that BS 7671 is used to define what safe means. That standard is very...

They were typically Myson round top rads, imperial sizes. A few others make them now but as suggested they aren't cheap. Given they are almost the same as Type 22 convecting rads then their efficiency isn't much less than more modern type 22 rads A traditional type column rad - depending on...

Certainly would agree that it won't be the plumber that would normally perform the electrical testing but bonding criteria? Not sure why a plumber wouldn't know about bonding criteria and if needed, when checking the pipework, should be able to identify it or note the lack of it. I'm a plumber...

Spot corrosion - may need to find out whether is a current leak or something else that is causing that as it could be effecting other copper in the property. Are the pipes electrically bonded? Hard to say re plastic - all comes down to how much is needed of what size really and then how many...

Lol - not just common sense but when actually knowing what they are and then actually thinking about it when typing would help!! I guess thinking along those line though, then the rad between K1 and K2 shouldn't really be a P+, even though it stand for panel plus, maybe should have been a K1.5...

Are you talking about a bottle trap below the basin? Why is there no room, is it a pedestal with a straight through trap?

Doh! - absolutely - really need to engage brain when writing sometimes

You can get cutting oil but a medium grade mineral oil will do, 3-in-1 is great for that. Another option is to cool it while cutting and that will save the cutting head too - water in a squirty bottle will do the job. If it's cutting well dry though then great, all the oil/water does is saves...

Maybe - but in my experience when it comes to a difference of ~ 30mm between them then there isn't that much difference in aesthetics - if client want a closer to the wall profile then I configure the brackets so the rad is on the short side rather than the long side. Being on the longer side...

The fundamental difference between 21's and 22's is output. The greater depth, as mentioned, is to accomodate 2 sets of fins rather than 1. With 2 sets of fins the functional output of a given size of rad is greater in relation to the depth that the rad will sit from the wall. Again though it...

From my experience I've never had any issue with Stelrad - did you buy direct from them or from another supplier? I get mine direct from a well known factor who are Stelrad Accredited, who deliver them with their own vans/staff. I've only ever had 2 received damaged, one where the end and top...

With rads it all really comes down to correct sizing to cover the space's heat loss and then the rest is just down to aesthetics.

Absolutely - there is no common approach and every one seems to contradict everyone else these days, doesn't make it easy. As suggested I just go with what is known to work and that can actually be different tray/surface dependent

It all seems to depend on the manufacturer that is detailing the installation method as to what they ask for. That is 4 different methods that they ask for when it comes to MSC trays and then in the plumbworld link they do say to use Installation compound adhesive, even using a contact...

I'm always one for using a silicone adhesive for tray's these days, especially for flat bottomed trays - having been asked to fit a few of these lightweight SMC moulded trays more recently though they do seem to follow a similar process as the formers do, where they are used more as a wet room...

I believe they recommend a flexible adhesive for setting down moulded trays. The sub floor does need to be level though so the tray sits flat on it and all the adhesive is doing is setting it down. The adhesive shouldn't be used to level out the tray, given the slightly flexible nature of the...

'Fraid not - Certainly not in the UK - Our stop taps use a compression screw to push a brass rubber topped 'jumper' down onto a valve seat, it uses that compressive force to seal the rubber washer to the valve seat to stop the water flow