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Wet wall or tiles is really a personal preference IMO, though it is easier and quicker to install. I hate the stuff though, it just doesn't feel right, feels and looks cheap to me and the finish is so 'manufactured' if that makes sense - fitted it a few times and always go back to tiles. To...

I guess the only trouble with it being 75mm is - there isn't any standard 75mm plastic for soil stacks, cast is the only stuff that comes in 75mm, which in essence is 3". Closest is either 68mm rainwater or 82mm soil pipe, which seems a bit stupid if the regs quote that size.

Usually draining it gives a good indication, then filling it from the top and draining again after it's all been churned up. Only way to be sure though is to remove it, turn it upside down and flush it. That is more so for gravity fed open vent HW cylinders though and it's usually down to a...

The trouble starts when there's a lot draining at the same time, and what volumes are in play, that's where the min spec comes from to release both negative and positive pressures. The regs are usually best case and would 50mm work, probably. The regs are more for when the LABC comes along and...

OK - Try it again, say around 6pm - that should be when the district main's under a typical high load, again with the gauge on the outside tap with a couple of outlets running. That'll give you the worst case scenario. Good to hear about the vertical cylinder as most clients I hear about that...

If the stack you want to move is dry and is just to vent then yes it can be moved, where to is the issue I would suggest. Any dry section of a 110mm vented stack needs to be of sufficient size to vent the wet section of the 110mm soil pipe adequately, hence the min dimensions. You'll find it in...

The benchmark is there to ensure that the Unvented (edit) has been installed as per the MI and that everything is as it should be. The mains supply to the unvented does not really come into it as far as the size of the pipe is concerned. The preferred solution to satisfy an unvented cylinder is...

OK - you need to check that :- a) when the hot water is on at the programmer that the valve to the HW cylinder is getting 240v @ the brown wire and 240v @ the grey wire, b) if so and the motor moves and opens the valve when powered on, once fully open then make sure there is 240V @ the orange...

You have an S plan using a combi. you have 2x2 port valves - 1 will connect to the central heating, the other to the hot water cylinder. Does the system have a programmer/timeclock? Has that been checked and is it switching the HW on? If so then chances are the microswitch to the one...

An electric shower uses flow, controlled by the big temp control knob, and heating elements (usually 2) to vary the temp @ the shower head. Depending on the power setting, typically it would be - Cold (no heating element) > ECO (one heating element) > MAX (both heating elements) and that sets...

All depends on what fitting it's going into and how deep that is, given that's a "cylinder connector" If the female fitting is deeper than the male fitting plus the rubber seal then no it won't work and tape/cord would be needed, if the male fitting length will run to the bottom of the female...

What model of WB is it? There probably will be a 2 port valve out on the flow to the cylinder. Where that is is anyone's guess though it would make sense to have it close to the cylinder. Either that or cabling/power may have dictated where it was situated.

Absolutely - It's all about how it may look, if it's typically in against a tiled wall, once fitted and the tiles are on. Just need to check that the tap bases sits flat on the side of the bath and not so far forward that they catch the downward curve of the edge into the bath, otherwise they...

Never use them, just baton the bath along the long back wall and any wall it touches on the short ends, paying attention to the outside corners, leaving enough space for the bath panel.

A combi, where the mains is good say > 2bar dynamic, will happily supply the larger rain shower heads. I have found it's simply down to pressure. Anything above 1 bar will feed the smaller rain shower heads without an issue, anything above 2 bar will happily supply the larger =>250mm heads as...

I'm afraid the site rules dictate that we are not allowed to sanction DIY gas work. Obviously working directly on a gas valve is exactly that and wouldn't be recommended.

Yeah - when an older compression valves are locked down tight then the threads tend to bind together as they're only softish brass, so sometimes they need a little extra persuasion.

It's jammed - either the thread on the valve or the jumper with the rubber seal - it may go with a bit more persuasion and then it'll click and unwind, give it a spray with some penetrating fluid first.

The lock ends up failing after a time of trying to hold the curtain up, time for a new one - or even a proper fixed one?

yes - that's great he has identified the component but if the gas valve isn't available then there's no point n knowing what component is dead as any component parts will be long gone, even before the last valve went, so it basically comes back to - it needs a gas valve. Are there any part...