Search results

I think you're in a fairly good position then given the circumstances. As others have said beams have to deflect to build up resistance to the loading, just like a spring and on most domestic steels it's the deflection that determines the size required. That size increases dramatically as the...

Agree 100% Tony. I'm glad I'm just about retired but a simple example of how common sense seems to be totally absent. My swanson has been a large rear extension on our "downsize" new place. (>6 months to finalise design with SWMBO!!) Gorundworker round yesterday to look at site and raised...

I don't believe for one second that a competant SE has detailed a 100 bearing for such a beam. I would always have 150 minimum and increase that if the padstone was going to be long to reduce the tendancy for the pad to roll under eccentric loading

Padstones are there to spread the load imposed by the beam out over a sufficient area to match the allowable bearing stress of the masonry. Bigger loads and weaker masonry dictate larger pads.. Perfectly possible to bed a beam direct on masonry if the numbers work. This is why normal lintels...

All you need is a bit of timber under the low side. Have a decent size piece and make sure it sits flat on your surface. You're going to have someone foot the ladder aren't you?

Shed felt is cheap nasty stuff. A proper felt roof is at least 6mm thick with 3 layers. You could DIY with care: get a roll of 2mm torch on. You'll be able to handle small pieces with a decent blow lamp. Make good the ply as suggested then cut bits of felt to infill the hole to bring you up...

He's used an odd length of 203x133UB by the looks of it which I'd guess he has picked up cheap. Nothing wrong with the notion of a properly designed steel to be used as a padstone but this one's not an appropriate size and that will make the drylining that bit trickier. Another red flag for me...

I think you need to stop this guy. What he has done is a total waste of time as the padstone is still not capable of distributing stress. This is a messy situation but at he end of the day you are the client and you are paying to have the job right, and FWIW you are paying BC to make sure it...

150 for warmdek

Old and some curious thoughts too: 1100kg of sand and gravel is equivalent to 1000-1050kg of ballast? At 1:5 as he suggests 150kg cement matches 750kg Adding mesh won't stop the joint cracking(if anything it might make it fractionally more likely). Yo'd want to dowel the joint if this is a...

Unless you're very careful 1/8 plywood will be displaced by the foam. To be safe I think you'd need to drill a whole series of holes and work alomg. It must make a difference but how much is anyone's guess.

Doesn't look as though he's finished with this one yet!

"My sons original Structural Calcs were signed off by BC, but the Builder said he always uses the same guy and he'd prefer to use him on this project. I have no idea if those calcs were signed off by BC" That's a big red flag! Why?? One assumes he has to pay his SE so no point unless he can get...

This is a whole new can of worms! Did your son have a design which was BC approved? Did the builder price this and then offer a reduction if he was allowed to redesign? Have BC actually appproved the beam sizes used? 2 months is way too long to let an issue like this ride. I'd be tempted to...

Both are bad. In the first the padstones are wrongly set and not able to distribute the load and all the weight is on the one against the opening and that has failed the block under it. This is doubly worrying as the factors of safety and the (assumed) absence of any snow loading means that...

You don't need the mechanical fixing step you've got the board bonded and temporarily propped so just go to the battens. You don't need sleeves. I would want to cover withcement board since it's external,

Probably just sitting on the frame. A steel angle is the usual lintel in this situation and you'd surely see that.

I have a turkey baster for jobs like this. All controlled and you can put the excess back in the pot if you've a mind dto.

Drill a bit of scrap wood with your hole saw as normal then clamp it to your workpiece and use the hole saw without the pilot drill. The wood keeps the saw in place. This dodge also works if you need to enlarge holes: eg to fit bigger downlighters.

It looks like a normal 1 brick wall with all those headers on show. I would consult the tech boys at the supplier of whatever goop you're using.