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Agree with this 100%. Here's one I did for a customer last week and she's delighted. It'll look even better next week when I tuck point it.

Silver sand is good for really small joints, but for bigger joints like weather cut and struck there's no body to the mix. It's like working with a pudding mix. I've used it doing some 2mm joints on a brick slll last year, but it was a lime mix, so was workable.

Agree with this 100%. To get a good colour match the first thing to do is put a sample of the existing mortar in brick acid, and this will leave you with a sample of the original. Where the bricks were slightly chipped, a coloured red mortar should be used to match the bricks, not filled with...

Back in the 30's it was quite popular to rake out the joints on new builds, and point them up at the end using that weather struck and cut style. They got the white colour by gauging white cement into the mortar mix, instead of the normal grey. White cement came into common use in the 30's from...

The brick line would be perfectly level if I was doing it. The brickwork below is normally the problem.

I've just put it up to £500 a day since you've been making your mind up woody. The war in Iran has sent the price of brickwork rocketing up. Might be £600 tomorrow.

The price can vary a lot on a job like this one. Most of the medium sized firms I've worked for would be into 4 figures to do the whole job of removing the frame, soldier course and closers, bricking up and colour matching the weather struck and cut pointing. The OP seems to be happy to remove...

I could fit you in tomorrow.

There's an alternative way to brick in a window without cutting out any bricks. You set the new brickwork back about an inch or so, so it's recessed. It's seen as an architectural.feature, and is sometimes done on new builds. It's a feature that mimics the old houses with bricked up windows...

How much were you expecting?

If you're happy to leave the soldier course and the 1/4 closer bricks in you could expect to pay around £400 for labour, You might get it done cheaper.

Do you want the soldier course left in?

Is the inside blocked up with studwork and plasterboard?

I've never taken mine off, so don't know how easy it is to remove.

Mine's had regular use, and is still going strong. I've always had Belle before, but thought I'd this one a go when the gearbox packed up on the Belle. The build quality doesn't look quite as good, but for the price I'd say it's a good mixer.

Screwfix do one similar to the Belle for less than £300. I've had one for over 7 years now.

I can't remember ever laying a 5N block.

It's probably lime run off. It looks similar to efflorescence, but being lime when it carbonates it can be harder to remove. It's quite common with engineering brick walls, as the bricks send most of the water into the joints rather than absorbing some. Free limes are a by product of the OPC...

Yes, looking at the photo a bit closer the low level ones are below a tap and drain, so it would be worth checking the ground isn't getting soaked in that area.

The brickwork above the window looks like it's dropped a bit due to a lack of a lintel.