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Don't touch any other radiator. Use the air bleed valve on the radiator in question to reduce pressure a little before draining that rad. Is the cylinder you refer to an unvented cylinder ?

You need to fit a new lock shield ,which is possible to do without fully draining the system. Close the other valve and drain the rad,after a while the water should cease to flow from the valve,and you can quickly swap the valve for a new one.

Is the system sealed/ pressurised ,or fed from an F&E cistern in the loft ?

A sudden drop in flow rate to a specific part of the premises plumbing is usually associated with something being altered,such as an isolation valve being partially closed,pipe being crushed,or a physical obstruction restricting pipework. Could any work have been carried out on your plumbing in...

Show us pictures of all components that came with the tap. As well as the tap ,side on.

Do you mean one bulb works in all positions ? If so connect the permanent live to the switched live at the switch position and see if all lights work. If they do the dimmer is the issue.

Replace the complete valve,body and actuator.

Sounds more like a cone fitting,rather than an olive that was used. Pics would be interesting .

You could check tomorrow how well the olive sits on the pipe by undoing the compression fitting,and try to knock it off the pipe . Rapping a spanner against the nut onto the olive. If it slides off the pipe easily it's a weak joint.

I assume the pipe is under mains pressure ? If it is, close your stopcock overnight if you are concerned. It sounds like you didn't tighten up enough when it blew apart. Old imperial copper is thicker walled and often harder too. You therefore need to tighten up the compression fitting quite a...

15mm olive should work perfectly well on 1/2 inch pipe. However a 3/4 olive would be needed on 3/4 pipe ,22 mm olive would not work.

Looks like at the very least need to strip out the radiators bleed valve ,and valve tails and re dress the radiator. If finances allow ,consider a new radiator and valves.

The condition of the pipe/ pipe ends must be in good condition ,no scratches on the pipe circumference,and pipe end should be smooth and free of burrs. Lubricant would ease assembly.

Replace the joints

Every single joint is leaking ,that's odd ??

Show us pictures of the bleed valve / blank plug and full end panel.

As well as the points noted above ,there also appears to be staining on the end panel of the radiator. The bleed valve ( or blanking cap ) at the top of the rad may be leaking.

Use the drain cock on the cold feed.

The internal silver pipe would allow complete draining of the cylinder.

That joint is soldered to the pipework. System needs to be drained ,the joint removed and a new one soldered on. If that is not something you can do call a plumber.