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Yes. Pipe clips would retain the positions. Saddle clips would be my preferred option.

If you can't re set the breaker with the wiring as it is in your picture ,there is either a fault elsewhere or with the wiring connections in your picture. What type of breaker is it ,MCB,RCBO or RCD ?

It's certainly doable to use angled valves ,but you need to be very accurate in positioning the pipework. If your not confident ,use the elbow and short vertical stub of pipe. If the pipes are copper , buried in the wall cover them with duct tape before plastering/ cementing over.

Unvented cylinders and their associated parts should be serviced annually . Only plumbers that are G3 certified can do this. I suggest you engage one. Do you know how often services have been done over the 20 years ?

Is the spindle a permanent part of the radiator ? If so the part that appears to be fixed to the wall may just be a cover that unscrews off,revealing whatever base is screwed to the wall and how it connects to the spindle,if that makes sense ?

Looks like there is an off set bush ( to allow for alignment / final positioning )between the "spindle" of the radiator and the bracket that's screwed to the wall. I would be surprised if there are not screws clamping them together.

Are there grub screws on the underside of the brackets ?

Just close your mains cold water stopcock ,and see if bathroom cold taps are still running ,if they do they are tank fed. Turn the electric shower to cold only,no heating elements on ,and see if that runs too.

What model of electric shower is it ?? Does it only have one water pipe going into it ?

What did you do Peter ?

Oh sheeite !! The switch cable appears to come from the rose, fairly standard loop In wiring.

Pictures of the wiring connections at the rose may be useful. If the permanent live to the switch originates there,that would be a starting point,followed by tracking the cable in the loft. Hopefully it's not boarded over up there and you can access the cables !

Is that the ceiling rose connected to the switches in question? If so ,is the permanent live to the switches fed from that rose ?

Are you saying one of the wires that was originally taped up lights up your voltage sensor ,and no other wires do ? You would be better off buying a multimeter ,those volt sticks are not gonna be much use to you for fault finding. Yes ,it's possible that pulling on wires could cause a...

Which circuit are the 2 switches part of ( I assume upstairs circuit)? As you left a few weeks between changing the hall switch ,and the issue that arose today, Have you worked on any ceiling light fittings ,or any other switches between,or been in the loft ?

I assume all other lights on the circuit are working ? Do you have more than one lighting circuit ( i.e . One breaker for upstairs and one for downstairs) ? Those non contact voltage sensors are not great to be frank . Looks like you have a job on your hands to find out why / where the voltage...

Which switch is the hallway ,is that the one with taped up wires ? You say you changed the hallway switch with no problems ,does that mean you tested turning the light on and off from both switches ok ,and then started work on the switch with extended wires ? If there doesn't appear to be any...

Did you put the old switches back on ,wired according to the way they were before removal, if so what was the result ?

Did you miss my above post ? I can't tell from the picture, it's not clear enough, but the wire appears to go where the screw is ??

In your picture above ,post no.8,( with the 2 red and 1 yellow wires connecting to a new switch) check the wire going to the com terminal.