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Sorry missed this... yes as the keeps should have adjustment for compression

Sounds to me like some of the issue is compression. How tight is the door in the door frame when the door is closed and and the handle pulled up ( I'm.assuming it's a standard handle and not a bar ). The door should be closed fairly tight against it's seals and then no water should be...

Lots of variables ... Fensa aren't the only competent persons scheme, there is also Certass, Assure , BsI and std building control. Your other 3 options are really personal preference and much more to do with the actual security of the windows and doors. Toughened or Laminate would have to be...

Having fitted some of these I suspect for it to have the internal bar reinforcement it's also on the lower pitched side too? As Crank says that will be the muntin bars ( H bars ) ... all manufacturers seem to suffer from them leaking eventually... i hate the things... looks.easy but never a...

Your bathroom vent isn't PIV , that's just an extractor fan. A PIV system draws air from the loft ...

Purge ventilation is simple things like opening doors and windows , and the use of extractor fans PIV - Positive Input Ventilation System, it pulls air in through the loft and pushes out through a machine in the loft

Just to set the record straight , glass sealed units themselves aren't actually Energy rated ( even though many places sell them as such ) , it is the entire frame and sealed unit that gets the energy rating. Back to your issue .. the uprated sealed units are doing their job, keeping the heat...

Low e coating was a building regulation requirement in 2007 ( in fact came in in April 2002 ) , so it should have Low e . Warm edge spacer wasn't widely used until 2010 when the building regulations were again changed and Window Energy Ratings introduced .. most companies opted to use warm edge...

Firstly - Condensation won't magically disappear with new windows . Condensation is water vapour collecting on the coldest surface..in this case it just happens to be your windows. So by getting new thermally efficient windows , yes your windows will not condensate as they are keeping warm BUT...

First thing is indeed to check if the door is level, upright and plumb... so a long spirit level on the uprights of the frame to check.its in upright and a smaller one to see of its actually level

Interesting... what's the make up of the sealed unit? As at a 16mm cavity I'm getting both clear glass and Bronze tint coming out at a u value of 1.2 ( both being argon filled and Soft coat Low e glass) If you are after more light then stick with clear glass , as any tinting to the glass will...

https://www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/products/product-categories/decoration/pilkington-texture-glass-wired Even Pilkingtons say it isn't... and they make the glass

Well seeing as I deal with glass every day .. my glass wholesaler. It is no longer a safety glass in obscure ( cast ) form, clear ( polished) is however . It is correct it also isn't a fire rated glass. A lot of misinformation regarding Georgian wire cast ( obscure ).... think I'd rather trust...

Looks like a Vectis door lock to me , if so can be converted using a new gearbox to a standard eurobarrel lock, Can't say I've ever come across a jammed one do can't help with that

Your biggest problem here is that Georgian Wire Obscured Glass is no longer considered a safety glass. ( and honestly trying to cut a hole for a catflap in it is a nightmare! ). As it is already fitted it complies with building regs, however if you remove it and are looking at replacing with...

I hate tilt and slides! A lot of the older mechanisms are not available now . Dgsupplyline might be able to help but last time I tried to get an older part 6 months later it still hadn't arrived and I cancelled the order!

Give him a few days to reply, he does a lot of work for Insurance companies , so does have a very full time job lol

It's a mullion cap you are looking for and @crank39 will probably be able to identify the profile

The ends of the cill cap do ideally need sealing as that's a hollow.profile and potentially could let water in BUT all things considered that is unlikely. The bigger issue is the silicone... unless you have drain caps ( or holes ) on the face of the bottom.of the frame then water had no way to...

Just to add to Cranks reply , you may need a second ' scraper ' to act as a wedge when ypu get the first gap appearing. I've had some really tight beads lately for some reason. And just a quick note... apologies if i don't reply quickly , don't seem to be getting all my notifications coming...