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The lead is unlikely to be more than 3x0.75, which means the biggest fuse you can use is 5 A.

Could be loose connections, possibly at one of the ceiling roses (from where the other light is fed).

8 AWG is 8.37 mm2. Canada and the US have somewhat similar electric regs and as far as I know none of them require proper testing and inspection, therefore few electricians actually own testers.

Hobs are usually a lot more powerful than ovens.

Make is Bosch, model is unknown though.

Very few hobs are actually three-phase. Most can be wired to run on either single phase or two phases of a three-phase supply.

That’s what I thought too. Let‘s hope it’s 1 mm2 T&E with the earth cut back. Even that would be 20+ years old though. On the other hand, unless overloaded or damaged mechanically or by extremely harsh conditions PVC cable and flex lasts pretty much forever.

That will only work with solid wires but the picture looks like flex. You‘ll most likely need to release the spring pressure in order to get the wires in.

Probably need to stick a screwdriver into the little slot to release the silver spring, push the wire into the adjacent round hole, remove the screwdriver and check if the wire won‘t pull out of the terminal easily.

These are individual connectors fixed onto a DIN rail. Wago makes them, as do a few others. Unfortunately I can’t remember their name off the top of my head.

There are only two options if there are two switches: 1) Both switches up = off, both switches down = off, one up/one down = on 2) Both switches up = on, both switches down = on, one up/one down = off With more switches things get more complicated.

Either way you could run the sockets straight off of your new connection and the lights off an FCU with a 5 A fuse.

A maintenance-free junction box should be OK though, as long as all cables are within safe zones.

My bad, I confused that with OP‘s intention to use a blanking plate. Sorry!

Accessories (in this case the new socket) create a horizontal safe zone, don‘t they? So assuming the blanking plate remains visible, all the cabled should be in safe zones.

Sounds absolutely fine if you extend both legs of the ring (assuming it is a ring). If it’s a radial you can just run one single 2.5 T&E to the new socket location.

The earth connection is explicitly mentioned in the last paragraph of the first post.

If you think that no power is getting to the FCU, you probably need to start checking fuses at your consumer unit. Remove each fuse and test it. You can do that by putting the fuse onto a smartphone screen, so that only one of the metal caps touches the screen. If you touch the other cap with...

Sounds like a broken switch and the FCU needs to be replaced.

Gable vents or windows perhaps?