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Yeah, that can create quite a bit of noise. I find using ThermaWrap works quite well for both insulating and cushioning the pipe against walls/concrete/other pipes. There are some other pieces of original timber touching the ground (cement ground) where moisture has wicked up, like you said...

I am rerouting some 15mm cold water copper pipes under my suspended timber floor. As I am running insulation between the joists, I have found the best way to route these would be through ventilation openings in sleeper walls. I am planning to lag the pipes and support them with talon clips...

Ok will use a hacksaw for this. Would that be done the same way as a copper pipe? Deburring cone inside and outside and emery cloth for the outside to make it shiny?

Right makes sense. For now I'll definitely get all the plaster off and I'll see what I'm dealing with on the rest of it. That looks good. I have to say though the state of your bricks and pointing looks much better than mine though :mrgreen:

Makes sense. I have started laying 32mm MDPE for eventually replacing all the lead pipes in the house, for now though I just wanted to get rid of this weird branching as it's in the way. I thought of using lead-loc but it's my first time working with lead, so I figured the Philmac one looked...

Unfortunately, the plaster itself is wonky. I have removed all the tiles and put my large spirit level on the wall, and it has large bumps and valleys all over the place. Also, after some replies here, I took a closer look and found quite a few hollow-sounding spots, which makes me think the...

I have been renovating my ground floor bathroom and while taking the walls back to brick, I found my mains pipe buried in the wall, going up to the eaves. This prompted me to follow the layout of the mains supply and found that although it starts at the ground floor, instead of supplying the...

The current plaster is actually fairly strong. The only reason I am removing it is that the cement board manufacturer recommends fitting it directly onto the brick instead of plaster, as the plaster may not be strong enough to hold the cement board and tiles. I am definitely up for doing this...

Thanks, that makes sense. Just checking, would I not need to repoint because the cement boards with the adhesive would practically hold the existing pointing in place?

Decided to go back to brick and put cement boards instead of tiling on the plaster, mainly because I am putting some very large and heavy tiles, which I was worried the plaster would not hold. Also, because the walls are very uneven and the previous tiling job looked very wonky because of that...

I am taking my bathroom wall back to brick in order to fit cement boards before tiling. After removing a section of plaster to expose a couple of bricks, I found the brick pointing to be crumbling and pulling away with just my fingers. - Is this lime mortar pointing? I put a piece in white...