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Yes absolutely 'they' won't instantly leap into action. Persistence is the key. Find their required response time to any complaint registered (not the time to fix it, just the time they are allowed to take to reply to the complaint). Complain. If they fail to respond or are late, complain again...

Again on your previous thread you mention the FENSA £5 test? Have you got that in writing anywhere- building regs do apply to doors and windows and they are a legal requirement. Back to your draught between glazing and bead- again electricians' PVC tape will give the best seal and not leave a...

Some observations; Give that door and frame a clean- it looks (from the residue) as if you've used gaffa tape or duct tape to seal the door/frame joint. Are you sure (as in have you done a smoke or candle test) that your are getting air movement between the glass and the bead- the air next to...

I'm no double glazing expert but i've never met a non-adjustable hinge on UPVC doors. To clarify, is this draught/gap between the glass and the beading or is it between the moving and fixed bits of the doors? Pics would be handy

A pic of the 'expensive' speakers would be useful, as would an investigate of any visible wiring at the speakers. As others, that is very cheap coax, not suitable for low impedance speakers.

Think someone already suggested tone generator if its an open circuit fail...you could try hire shops for time domain reflectometer but (if the whole run is inaccessible anyway) you might as well get stuck into lifting laminate and floorboards. Bet there's a hidden JB or an old isolator that...

Ahh, thats a lump of 3 x 2 rather than a piece of copper pipe. Presumably it is propping up the worktop in the middle of the sink? I'd be exploring alternatives to that (a run of 3 x 2 horizontal bridging both units to support the top maybe). Cheap units with a hardboard back plane, better ones...

Ahh, there was me thinking there were 2 separate appliances on the end of that changeover rather than 2 imm heaters in 1 cylinder. If you improve the insulation on the cylinder you'll retain more energy

For sure. Ideally you'd run straight behind until you got to the sink, then pop out (or tee in). Don't forget you'll need somewhere for the waste from the dishwasher to go. If the copper tubes are in the way, move them (you could use pushfit fittings and put a couple of crossovers in if you're...

The limit on pushing that waste pipe back will be the copper pipes (in your first pic, presumably leading to the taps). Apart from that, and the limited fall on the horizontal, carry on. Thats a fairly rough looking install, almost as if whoever did it forgot about the waste til after the units...

I meant check in the motherboard BIOS. (So power off fully, power on, press F2 or whatever key combination gets into your BIOS (this is BEFORE Windows loads), have a look in there. Screenshot (or take a pic with yr phone) of Device Manager wld be handy

Short answer -no. I wouldn't trust any of the Wifi modules i've met with more than 5 amps- that includes Smart Plugs. If you are intimidated by the thought of wiring a relay on the load side of another relay then best abandon your scheme now (or pay me or someone like me to build you a module).

Webcam- have you checked mfr website for an updated setup or driver. Sound card- (if you are plugging speaker into a 3.5mm socket then its the sound card playing up) have a look in the BIOS, make sure it is enabled. Then see if you can see it in Device Manager- if yes with yellow triangle then...

Unless the sink heater is an instant type (in which case there's no point controlling it) it and the immersion heater will have integral thermostats. And missed the bit about temperature. Sonoff do a single channel module with temperature detection (but that would have to be at the tank). Or...

Have a look at Marmox panels for the wet bits

Yes you can use T & E. The spare core- nip it off or make it safe (terminate in spare wago). Remember that you shouldn't just throw terminal block at the joint (if its going to be inaccessible it needs maintenance free joints. Easiest will be Wago in a Wago enclosure).

Bit niche for off the shelf. If you are up to a bit of fabrication, one of these 4 way wifi relay card, a couple of beefy relays (the ones on the card reckon they're rated to 13A but i wouldn't trust them) and the Ewelink app will work nicely. One of the card modes is interlocked (so if channel...

It took me about half an hour to get the basics of trenching and they are fun to use (as long as you are not next to foundations or digging round services). Plan your dig (so you never have to cross your trench or drive very near it once you've dug it).

16k for 24 metres of foundations? Either access is a nightmare or bloke who quoted doesn't really want the job. Depending on the ground, yes you can do a hand dig but it'll hurt- worst part is having to dig the trench wider than needed so you can work in it. Much much better to get a machine in...

Yes but make sure the resin bit is completely dry (hit it with a hairdryer or heat gun or something to make sure there's no condensation trapped in it), rough it up and acetone wash before you topcoat it. TBH you could just duct tape the damaged bit then do the job as a oner when you've got the gear