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He might not but I certainly would. The full bore lever valves are not infallible (anything with moving parts will eventually fail) but they are generally better build quality, have positive stops (some of those cheapo valves do not have a stop so you can't tell if they are off or nearly off)...

Don't use Ikea units. Or space them off the wall. That gives other issues of course

Don't forget that IKEA kitchen units don't have a service void at the back...

When you fitted the new rad did you drain the whole system or just that circuit from the manifold? There's an airlock somewhere, rad bleed valves on their own are often inadequate to shift a pipe bubble (you need a bit more flow. On modern rads you can remove the blanking plug at the top and fit...

Not going to work all that well. Because you have plumbed the 2 rads in series, each valve restricts the flow to BOTH rads. So if you switch the old rad off, no flow to new rad. If you wind down the lockshield on either rad it restricts the flow to both rads. Do it again- tee off the flow and...

Some of those controllers need a reset after a battery change- annoying cos you lose your custom programming but tis what it is. Danfoss TP5EManual here

First q has to be how new are those batteries? First action is for her to head for the shop and buy a pack of batteries (Aldi price on Duracell is ok at the mo) and try them. 99% certain that'll fix the problem

Are these tungsten (filament) lamps or LED? The power rating suggests tungsten, if they are then its either the dimmer itself or a poor connection on the load side.

You can run your shed via an FCU spurred off the kitchen circuit but it isn't a particularly good idea, especially if you have an electric cooker or other heavy loads on that circuit. Why not ask the bunch who quoted to quote for your new idea? (It probably won't cost a lot less than doing the...

As above, thats Scotia trim not skirting board. First off, have you checked that those corners actually are 90°- very rare that they are. Second, you are much better off scribing internal corners Third (very tricky with an angled trim like that) you have to make sure that the trim is in the...

If it is SWA all the way then best solution is Henley blocks and feed the garage (via suitable fuse/circuit breaker) before the CU. Then RCD and baby CU if appropriate in the garage.

That R1+R2 for the garage definitely needs investigating. If you are running high-current items in the garage (tumble dryer, welder, big compressor) then try not to until said investigation. Not seeing anything extraordinarily on the shower circuit.

Sounds as if the UFH was a later addition to an existing system, if it has been wired incorrectly (or lazily) then yes the ufh stat and pump can run entirely independently from the rest of the heating system. Which is not good- the UFH cannot call for heat, nor can it signal (to the boiler) that...

Nope. Socket switched off = no energy available. You need energy to create heat.

Weirdly the height limit is from floor level not bath level. When it is retested it'll almost certainly come back as C2 (inappropriate IP rating) in a rental.

3 possibles. 1 The switch or cable on the heater is defective 2 You left the switch in the ON position when you unplugged/moved/replugged the heater 3 Person(s) known or unknown switched it on, noticed after a while the nasty smell and possibly smoke from the plug, switched it off and are now...

Both fair enough reasons to go for the 9.5 then. I was assuming existing worked...

If the EV supply is fed from those tails that go up and through the wall they need replacing with 25mm anyway. Wonder how EV chap managed to work on the Henley blocks without being able to isolate supply....

This. For that burn to occur the socket must have been energised and the appliance must have been drawing current. Does the heater have an actual hard OFF switch on it or just a thermostatic control? (If the latter then the recent cold snap will probably have driven room temp below setpoint thus...

The performance difference between 8.5kw and 9.5kw isn't really enough to justify replacement. Either will deliver a deeply average shower experience in winter (though if cold water supply is tanked either will be ok. Not good but ok).