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Stick insulated plasterboard on with foam. Mechanical fix through that. Or Dpc timber and fix on wall. Screw foil backed plasterboard on timbers is another option

It's only a small area to dig. You can cover with shaving foam or I would just wet area before busting up. The black bitumen used to stick those asbestos tiles down with will have asbestos in but its solid. Don't go sanding or grinding. It's low risk but get good PPE and dig up. Spray water as...

Get digging It's not so bad as you think to move when you get at it

Eco loft. Non itch for health reasons. Looks like you have too much stuff in loft. The weight will cause the ceilings to bow. Fit some loft floor boards to spread weight across joists. Screw some timber across on big spans to spread weight across joists. Put what you can above walls for support...

I've also made a T bar to lift joists level before strengthening if required. That's if they will flex. Maybe hardwood

Gardz will seal a surface really well but won't help the original paint stick. Same goes for peel stop. I guess it depends how well it is stuck and if you want to try seal and paint and try and get it looking better

Cut around at wall edge then fit some timer to support the new floor. You don't want any flex around the edges. You can fit timber under the wall a bit to support existing floor and the new flooring. Knock through and have a look at what's under before you cut. Don't want to hit anything

Make or fit a rodding hole on ground and rod up for now. Need a link? I watch a drain guy that drills hole to rod down but you will be rodding up

4.5mins in you can watch sistering joists. Then strong tie mini joist hangers but you will need to measure the width and see whats available. Get the correct width of timber so it will fit in joist hangers.

Hopper and pipe clear? They fill up and get blocked with moss off the roof as thats what it looks like.

Rip the chipboard flooring up and replace

I you sure its a cavity wall? Unlikely with that age of property.

Just stick on the clear and sort the colour out in spring. You can top with whatever after a week or so, be good to go in spring. Sounds like the wax won't work if applied in this cold weather

Ronseal Total Clear Wood Preserver I just read data sheet and can't see any regarding temperature other than store above 5c Just lash on one coat. Was a fairly mild day today so it will seem dry in a hour or two. The problem is if you handle it so coat up as you buy it. Just roll and brush on...

I have a loft conversion. Was a bungalow. The floor is filled fully with rockwool. Is open either end at eves but I don't think much air blows through, if any. Don't know if this helps

I don't know the answer. Maybe. I didn't think it would though so I wonder if it's condensation at that point. What I think you could do with soffit vents or continuous vented soffit... You can drill holes and fit round vents. You also need to get solid eve supports fitted.

Clear primer preserver. Get a coat on. You can treat dry wood before you cut and fit it. Come spring you can go over with whatever

Put plastic over. Water under the plastic its a damp wall. Water on the plastic will show it's condensation. Sounds like a cold spot and condensation to me. Go watch skillbuilder YouTube channel which covers this. See if that helps you. The answer maybe start dealing with the excess moisture...

This not an option?

Silicone is normally just used on the outside so water don't get trapped inside aluminium frame. Also it could be condensation forming on the frame effecting that bit of wall