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Buy an electronic starter, this will; cure the slow starting problem, potentially DOUBLE the life of the lamp, ensure the lamp starts first time without repeated flashing, safely shut the lamp off when it dies and should last much, much longer than a traditional starter. As for the buzzing...

No. LED has significant advantages over GLS but not so much fluorescent.

:LOL::LOL::LOL: The Thorn fittings mentioned could be half a century old. Any LED replacement will NOT last that long, I guarantee it. What issues are you having? 70w tubes work perfectly in switch-start fittings originally intended for T12 75w tubes

Is it one of them cheapo flat things off Ebay/Amazon? If so it won't last anyway. Put the old fitting back up :)

There will only be two ballasts in the fitting, one for each side/tube. Here's a wiring diagram I've just cobbled together, you'll need to trace the wires to see which ballast has the capacitor in series. Don't get me started on nasty LED replacements that are supposed to be saving the planet...

These battens will almost certainly have what's known as lead & lag circuit. The tube which still works will be the lag circuit. The lead circuit has a capacitor in series with the ballast, this will be what has failed. You can simply bypass this capacitor and fit the new ballast you have, or...

I spent a while researching this very question a while ago and the answer I found was that yes you can notch the whole zone out if you wanted, I am not 100% sure this is true, but the lack of any guidelines for width of each notch and distance between them would suggest to me that it is. Also...

Picture of the unit? My guess is it's fluorescent and has some form of electronic ballast/driver which would need bypassing for a direct-mains powered LED replacement

Attach the earth cable to the screw holding the ballast onto the gear tray

FYI if you did decide Cat5e was good enough and you happen to be passing a B&Q, they had 100m reels of Nexans branded cable for £15 each in the clearance bins at my local yesterday

I am not a networking expert but I'll try to answer some of your queries based on the research I did before networking my own house, which I did in a good quality Cat5e cable and I am using a couple of switches in places where more than a single cable run would have been difficult. Cat5e will...

Fit a WiFi bulb in the brick light would be the simplest solution. You may have to fit a standard bayonet or Edison screw lamp holder in the fitting & will have to bypass any control gear. Note that in my experience brick lights are notorious for allowing moisture ingress so this would need...

In that case the only advice I can offer is be very careful of the warranty terms on anything you buy. All manufacturers warranties, despite quoting them in years, are usually based on hours. They can say 2, 5 or 10 years warranty but that is actually only valid (often) up to 50,000 hours total...

When dimmed they will not be drawing 300w. I would use a power meter to see what they actually draw when dimmed to see if all the messing about with inferior LED replacements is really worth it

If you want reliability you need a magnetic ballast and a quality branded HID lamp and an external igniter, this may be what you already have? LED high bays and many other high power LEDs are too expensive and too much of an unknown in terms of quality & reliability in my opinion.

GU10 is usually recommended as it's the simplest option. There's no messing about with transformers that can fail or cause issues with incompatible lamps etc. GU10 lamps seem to be far more common too with plenty of options for colour temperatures, wattage and beam angle etc. Make sure the GU10...

In my opinion the 'MK essentials' look awful, they looks like the cheap tat you can buy from Ebay straight from China. I would guess they're not very good quality as even Logic Plus range isn't what it used to be, I've seen light switches fail prematurely and the screws used in the sockets were...

The fitting should be suitably IP rated for the environment. Standard bulbs should be fine.

Semi Resonant Start (SRS, sometimes called 'starterless') was invented by Thorn around the 1960's I believe and involved using a capacitor to raise the open circuit voltage & additional windings to heat the cathodes at power up to strike the tube, quite an interesting technology for nerdy types...

Even big manufacturers make mistakes and have bad batches from time to time so it's possible that it's simply faulty from the factory. Do you have a picture of how you wired it up?