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I could be birds as well.

If it was compressed hardcore it would by liftable (slowly) with a garden fork, if it is mortar/concrete, then it will not be able to have pieces lifted out with a garden fork. Try using a wrecking bar pointed end first to see which it is, it will become obvious very quickly with one of those.

I think it means there is only 15mm below the glass, that means the beams are quite small, and aluminium has catastophic failure modes in overload, a timber beam would give visible bowing long before failure. Neither of us know for sure, the OP has to find out more about the structure of his...

Cross battening will help reduce the heat lost through the aluminium beams, but if they are only 15mm deep I am concerned if they will be strong enough to take the weight of the plasterboard, specially after you have added some holes for the screws that hold the cross battening.

I have a work surface coated with Osmo top oil matt, it does not change the colour of the timber really. And yes, filling holes and making them not show afterwards is difficult, needs a carefull choice of filler and subtle use of stain to make it try and match existing timber.

The point is that if you fit a rigid bit of wood on the inside and screw to it at the top and bottom of the wall, then the cabin will get unsettled over the first season. THAT is what you need to be carefull of. You need to have slotted holes in any timber (and large washers so that the screws...

Well celotex is impermeable, so no air circulation at all. and 15mm of kingspan/celotex will not make enough of a difference, Perhaps 15mm of celotex, then screw some dummy joists at across the aluminium with enough depth to hold say 100 mm of celotex, then plasterboard onto that, depends if the...

dont forget that log cabins grow and shrink with the seasons, but the insulated internal wood will not move as much, so if the inner and outer timbers are screwed together at top and bottom then you run the risk of gaps opening up between the logs and then allowing water in that way. The Tuin...

BLO gives quite a darkening to the wood, so not for all circumstances, also filler and stains make it difficult to keep an even colour after you are done...

Iso Propyl Alchohol will soften the glue, and it will evaporate after you are done.

well it has since been done properly, but our consevatory had quite deep timbers so i fitted celotex between the joists that held up the glass, I was able to fit 125mm celotex, then fitted plasterboard up that I screwed into the joists. On the outside I painted with aluminium primer, then white...

Well to fix to glass you need the surfaces spotless and grease free, so a wipe down with MEK or similar after you have cleaned it with anything else. Also araldite in tubes slowly gets weaker due to moisture getting in, it might need to be a fresh tube, or use a bubble pack of epoxy, those do a...

Lime is better from the humidity control it provides to the room inside.

yes, otherwise you have a path for water to dribble all the way down the wall, if it is very windy all bets are off, but in milder rain it makes a huge difference.

If the cement fill is not complete, then there may be a path for water to pass back to the wall without being caught by the groove. the same thing is done to wooden lintels and windows, relies on having a clean run for the water to drop off before making it back to the wall.

look for one of the "stopping" products, a solvent based filler that gives a wooden coloured fill, choice of colours available, some are quite tough to sand from memory, not used them for a while. Once the wood surface is flat and to the right colour there are many stains available, or BLO...

you need a groove underneath the coping stone so that water that runs down the outer edges has somewhere to drop off, rather than running all the way back to the wall. It only needs to be a few mm deep and wide. the gaps between the coping stones need to be fully filled with sand cement, and...

Grrr, I have got the beading out, and started trying to repack the corners, it is still warped, but have managed to get more packing in than before. I first set the hinges to about vertical, and the inner and outer edges near enough plumb. the door still seems to need another 2mm to get it...

ok, so how do I do that?

As Title, I have adjusted the hinges quite a lot already, and the outside view shows that the top of the door is about 6mm further away from the companion door than the bottom. The closing edge is still much lower than the hinge edge and it is rubbing on the plate provided on the base, and this...