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Just change the actuator. As Mandate has advised above if the valve spindle is stiff you should consider replacing that in the long-term as the replacement actuator may burn-out in time.

Is this "the white one"?... http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/potterton-myson-act322-actuator-mpe322-msv322-mpe328-msv328-p-122.html?search=actuator If yes remove it from the valve body (two flat-head bolts), turn spindle to mid position and see what happens when CH comes on.

What is written on the actuator (make and model)?

1/ This probably confirms third point... 2/ This is the system pump, leave it at the speed it was originally. 3/ This sounds like the actuator; this turns the 3-port valve on which it is mounted, they can sometimes be removed without a drain. Come back with a photo of it.

As Muggles said, why change the boiler?

Hi I have a front door light that doesn't have a PIR sensor. Is there a way of fitting a PIR whilst keeping the same light fitting? The light bulb is surrounded by glass so I don't think a bulb with a PIR sensor will work. Ideas?

I don't know about underfloor heating but you could just change the pump head by unscrewing the 4 Allen key bolts. Isolating the pump at the pump gate valves beforehand may not work 100% so be prepared in case you get some leakage.

If there's not much space between wall and pipe check the filter will actually fit before you cut.

If the pipework to the right of the pump was clamped to some wooden batons (ie make it more rigid) might this lessen the sound?

I cleaned out my system a couple of years ago using Sentinel x400 and then fitted the Spirotech MB3 before refilling. The Spirotech MB3 may not be as effective as the Magnaclean but it is a solid piece of kit. I drain the filter twice a year (and top up the FE tank with a small shot of...

Heating on and set thermostat above 5 degrees. Open loft hatch.

As long as the TRV works keep it as is.

The heat exchanger will get all the chemical cleansing like all other parts of the system. When you come to drain out all the x800 (and crud) you'll need to: * re-fill the system with fresh water, * bleed air from rads, * run the pump for 5 minutes or so and * drain... repeat 2 or 3 times...

Thanks for the helpful suggestions. All sorted now. It must have been from when the water meter was changed earlier this year when I had to flush several gallons from the kitchen tap to clear the muck.

Thanks John, I did as you suggested and on the float valve side there were some black particles but nothing major. The black particles reminds me when the water meter was changed earlier this year and I had loads of crud come out of the kitchen tap. All put back together and the flow has...

Hi I thought the float valve was shot as I was getting a dribble out of it so I've replaced that. I've found no change with the replacement, still a dribble. Mains pressure is fine. There's a stopcock in the loft from the mains for the cold water fill, could that be the problem, perhaps a...

While parking I knocked in to a concrete bollard. Independent body-shop quotes the repair costs to be £700 (replacement of one panel, removal of bumper and respray). The car is worth (was / would be worth) £2500 max. I'm 43 and haven't had an at fault accident before. My insurance excess is...

Heatmiser stat should do the job. You need to determine which one from the range you'd require.

From 2 - 3 (blue) you could use a U-bend... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15mm-22mm-copper-180-degree-return-bend-plumbing-diy-new-u-bend-/161161553662 If so then it may well be better all-round to get a plumber in to solder 90 degree bends off the return flow pipe as well as the U-bend. If you...

JohnD is right, I baled out too late. :(