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I think the PRD on Tritons come off the outlet so they only tend to drip when the shower is running and less will drip if the shower head is less restricted which the OP indicated happened when the original shower head was put back on.

On the ones I've seen, the holes in the shower head are very small and give the impression of good flow but its a smaller amount of water moving faster. I've also been to few where they have caused problems. Don't forget that the people selling these things are just buying stuff from AliBaba or...

If it was one of those shower heads with the little beads in the handle, they are very restrictive and will have broken the PRD diaphragm. Spares are available from showerdoc.com

The heat from the condenser must be going somewhere. If its not vented to outside, it must be going into a heat sink. They probably use mains water and dump the warmed water down the drain.

A close coupled toilet with a bottom outlet pan may be an option. Twyford Alcona I think is one but others may be available. Would need to check dimensions but a small amount of flexibility given by using offset pan connector.

Is this towel rad second hand? The hole at the top should have a vent screw in it for bleeding air out. If its missing, steer well clear.

You're correct in that the main seal is made between the underside of the bath and the waste using a rubber washer. Quite normal though to find rough fibreglass at the mating surface hence the need for a smear of sealant on the washer. As for silicone vs plumber's mait, if used correctly, both...

Yes, I put one flexi in, secured the tap and then fitted the other flexi from below. Remember it being a PITA.

I had to buy one off tinternet for a job a while back. Its double ended 34 & 40. Think it was the 40mm end that did the job. Less than a tenner from Amazon as I remember. Really cheap and nasty quality but it worked.

You need to trace the pipes from the valves in the airing cupboard upstream and downstream. Does one come from the loft tank and feed into the base of the hot water cylinder? If you close this valve you will stop water entering the cylinder. When you open a hot tap, water will flow until the...

Use a McAlpine waste and trap. Any should fit but if they are from the same manufacturer, there should be a better chance of a perfect match. I would throw away the stuff that's been kicking around the shed for years and buy new. Cheap enough.

Don't bother trying to patch up something that has failed. They are cheap enough so replace the bath waste and the trap. Shouldn't need any sealant between waste and trap. Firm hand tight should do it. I sometimes use a thin smear of LSX either side of the rubber between underside of bath and...

How can someone who put that together call themselves a plumber. Get rid of it all and get an extendable p trap directly off the waste and a straight bit of pipe connecting to the pipe where it enters the wall. https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-adjustable-inlet-tubular-p-trap-white-32mm/89677

You can just nip up the gland nut you have circled. That should stop the leak but it will likely come back again as the tap is used. You can wind out the gland nut, get some PTFE tape and twist it into a string, wind it round the spindle then tighten the gland nut back into place. That will...

If you already have a fluidmaster fill valve, you can just change the business part of it from inside the cistern and leave the part that is fastened through the base of the cistern in place.

Possibly this one...

The manufacturers instructions will have minimum clearances for the sides, top, bottom and front so no problem enclosing in a cupboard. Needs better access for service and maintenance though which should be as easy as making the door bigger.

If its a heat only it won't have isolators on the flow and return and no internal expansion vessel or auto air vent to worry about. You will get a bit of water when you crack the joints and it may well be mucky so protect carpets etc. I would close both the trv and lockshield. Release pressure...

No way I would be going through the hassle and time to drain down just to switch those valves round. Should be able to do it under vacuum once the pressure is released. Make sure any auto air vents are closed. Depending on the boiler, the flow and returned isolators can be closed to isolate the...

Nope, never fitted rad covers but come across a few fitted with the trv poking out the side.