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Looking closer at your pictures, it appears you have a combination cylinder with a small cold water store on top of the hot cylinder. If this is the case, a pumped shower is not an option as you don't have sufficient cold water storage. An electric shower using mains water is really your best...

As Madrab says, you have the wrong processor. There is a company that does repairs and reconditions these processors. I know they do an exchange for people changing from a vented to a pressurised system. They will probably do the same for you and exchange yours for a pumped version. Will be a...

Looks like excess solder from when the pipe was extended. It could be leaded solder but on heating pipes it is really nothing to worry about.

As above, replace the trap. Not worth faffing about when a new one costs less than a tenner.

Fill valve working correctly. It is height adjustable if you wanted to raise the water level. Below the float assembly there is a small grey clip on the stem which can be removed. The top part can then be rotated slightly and will then move up or down as required. The rim of the float bowl...

The o ring should fit around the part that the cap screws onto.

Yes, anticlockwise turn then lift out. There are video links on the Siamp website showing how.

Fill valve looks like Flomasta from Screwfix but seems to be working correctly. Flush valve is Siamp Optima 49. Easy twist and lift out to check seal. Sometimes just needs the limescale scraping off the seal and the seat. A new seal will be less than a fiver online. New valve is about £20 from...

Easy for you to say

The shower would have been fitted and then tiled over. Even if you had an exact match you wouldn't be able to fit it without removing tiles.

Yes. Turn off water. Lift the locking ring on the stem of the valve. Pull the valve upwards. Replace with new part. There is a little spring clip which can slide up the metal rod to adjust the height of the float. On later ones it was replaced by a plastic screw adjuster.

Never bother changing washers on these. A new valve is only a few quid and you only need to replace the top part with no need to drain the cistern. 10 minutes including cuppa.

Do you mean drain the cold water in the house via the heating pipework by way of the filling loop? In a word, NO. You can drain most of the water from the mains pipework by shutting off the stopcock and then opening the lowest outlet, followed by opening the highest outlet. The lowest outlet is...

Yes it should really be there. To be honest, though, after a few years, drain offs are so unreliable that I would be looking for any other way possible to drain pipework rather than use a drain off that will either not work at all or will leak after its been used. However, if its on their quote...

I've never seen one like that. May be worth sending these guys your photos to see if they have any ideas. https://toiletseatstore.co.uk/

Boiler manufacturers usually specify a minimum distance of copper pipe attached to the boiler but beyond that point barrier pipe and plastic fittings are ok.

With an external soil stack and sink waste going out through the wall into a gulley, I'd be very surprised if there was an issue under the kitchen floor.

Temporary repair to the soil stack with duct tape until it can be repaired or replaced should rule it in or out as the problem. My money would be on the trap being pulled though. Reducing from 40mm to 32mm is very likely to cause suction on the water in the trap. You could try an anti vac trap...

It may be the angle and perspective but the waste pipe looks narrow. It should be 40mm but if its 32mm and there was only a shallow trap its possible that the trap was being pulled by self siphonage when the sink empties.

Ah, I assumed it was an upstairs flat. The vent pipe needs to be higher but it wouldn't cause a smell downstairs.