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I'll give them a go. Got to be better than using strong acid, as long as they work. Does anyone know of a reason why I shouldn't use acid though? I've been thinking I could neutralise it with some bicarb (poured in slowly!) before flushing, should prevent any issues.

It's 1930s and on the mains. The plumbing was all new 4 years ago. New plastic main from the street, and everything in the house.

I don't have hard water - my kettle has no scale at all on it. The stains aren't bodily waste, they are something in the water. I think it only collects in the toilet bowl because water sits there all the time. The kitchen sink (stainless) goes brownish if I don't clean it for a while. I...

Bleach doesn't have much effect on it.

Just cleaned the brown stains from my toilet bowl by chucking in 100ml or so of Spirit of Salts. It's brilliant, far better than any toilet cleaner product. Is it OK to do this regularly, or could it cause damage? The toilet is newish with a plastic (multifit?) connector, but the downpipe looks...

I've just left the hot tap running and turned the blender end to end a few times, then reset it back to normal. The hot water is fine now. Maybe very slightly brown but I can barely tell the difference between the hot and the cold. Thanks dreadnoughtheating, I owe you a pint if you're ever...

@picasso I did have disintegrating iron mains, but they got replaced with nice new plastic before the new plumbing was commissioned.

I think you're onto something! I can't adjust the blender while watching the water - it's up a ladder in the loft. I turned the blender up to max, then went down to the bath and put the hot tap on full. It was steady brown while it cleared the pipes, then there was a slug of much darker...

Hold on a min, and I'll give it a go...

I've just had a look through the documentation that came with it, and there's no mention of the vessel partway along the hot water coil. It's in the diagrams, but it's not mentioned in the text. I'm probably just displaying my ignorance here, but I can't see how it can be a hole in the hot...

I've just a look in the F&E cistern, and the water in there looks like it hasn't been disturbed in years. The level is below the overflow, and the end of the vent pipe that comes from the top of the cylinder is bone dry. It doesn't look like the cylinder has been flowing into the expansion tank...

Thanks for the quick response! It's a Gledhill Torrent solar RE 280. The solar coil is currently unused.

Help! I've just got home to find my hot water is brown. It looks too murky to have a bath in, and if I leave it it eventually settles to a fine dust at the bottom. The cold water is fine, even after heating in the kettle, so it doesn't seem to be a contaminant in the water supply. The hot...

I've foolishly laid a click together bamboo floor over a concrete base that's not level enough, and now it's creaking when I walk on it. I really don't want to have to level it properly with self levelling compound, but is there anything else I can do? I don't mind it flexing underfoot, as long...

Insulating under the floor sounds like a good idea, wish I'd heard of it before I sanded mine. There's no way they're coming up now, they're softwood and it'd trash them.

Don't notice any draughts through the floor boards, but then there's only one airbrick to ventilate the whole space :) I'd pretty much decided to leave well alone. It's lasted 70 years as it is, so it must be OK. I've never heard of insulating under the floor, do you just put the stuff...

So I should open up the second airbrick so that it ventilates under the floor? Any idea why it was built that way in the first place? The inner skin is just continuous brick over the airbrick. It looks like it was built that way, and hasn't been filled in at a later date. Is it OK just to...

I've been poking around under my floorboards trying to stop the small furry visitors getting in, and I noticed something odd about the airbicks. There are two at the front of the house that vent to the cavity, but one has a brick removed on the inside skin so that it vents right through to...

Will do. We're looking to install in August, I'll get some pics when it's done. Now I've just got to build a radio control system that runs on solar power and works over 600m.... But that's a question for a different forum :P

Thanks Onetap Found a flange adaptor at Viking Johnson: http://www.vikingjohnson.com/pdf/vj_flexlock.v2pdf.pdf Looks like it'll do the job perfectly, no welding required