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My link works (for me). The link was to a on line seller of Formica sheet. Thousands of colours, mostly sub 1mm thick and you simply glue it on and trim to fit. Formica is a quite an old surface covering, hard wearing , heat resistant and much stronger than the average laminate your find on...

Rubbish idea, even when the paint is corrected it will fail due to wear, hot cups and knocks. How's about some 0.7mm Formica sheet and glue it on? http://www.morland-uk.com/shop/laminate-sheets/brands/all/formica-hpl-laminate-sheet-f3091-crystalwhite.html?___SID=U

Maybe he was stoned and ran off mid post to get some chocolate milk and cookies.

Decent flexible caulk, or even a frame sealant. Both will likely leave a ridge even after painting. A lime based filler might work, is the fabric standard plaster or something with age?

In the 70's wood chip was seen as a wonder substance, but I'd never recommend (ever, ever, ever) that product. Choice Get room skimmed by a plasterer or as an alternative line all walls with a thermal product (they tend to be 2mm + thickness). Can't see scale on the posted picture, but 2000...

Paint of any type over a poor surface will look poor. Why not buy a heat gun and spend a day burning off and preparing the wood for a complete 'start from raw' job. You don't mention the skirting type. If it's a generic less fussy skirting if might be easier to take it all off and replace it...

Save the money on sanders, and pay to get the room skimmed. You mention the prospect of selling on and making the job right will add value, doing it in a DIYers half right will deduct value. If the walls are salvageable, normal rules would be scrap all flaky paint, initial sand with 60g or...

Trade paint tends to more expensive due to its superior quality, coverage and pigmentation. The DIY person does a DIY job, a trade painter will apply a trade product safe in the knowledge that the paint finish and longevity of material warrants the cost of use. My attitude as a DIYer has...

More likely nails than screws. Hence why screws are better if the boars flex or try to move. Dig off the plaster top and using a punch and hammer, or a decent sized nail (as a punch) and give the nail heads a few decent bashes. With luck the nails will purchase and the head will sink under the...

Primer befor UC or TC please, worth double knotting while you can. I'd have primed and UC pre fitting skirting. The trick with plastic matting can be done with heavy gloss paper such as found via magazines, an alternative is grease proof paper.

I use a trusty bread knife to cut with, minimal dust and as accurate as you need.

Phone up a joiners and ask if they know who will spray up wood. Round here there's a booming business in spraying MDF and any wood used for furniture, bespoke storage and kitchen fronts. Pretty sure it was £100 for 4sq m both sides.

Bernard how would you not know you've put a clip bail through a cable? OP surface clipping is quite rare now, ego tube, trunking, conduit, cases (with double cut chase machines) are more common. The few times I surface clip I find it quite relaxing to dress the cable, tease the mbr and clip...

I'm sure there are many who have pretty well much abandoned this part of DIYnot. Ban might be a smart lad, my problem is that he is too smart for his own good and replaces thought and knowledge with sarcasm and vitriol. After a while I got fed up with it and have chosen to avoid posting wholly...

Anything that has wet bottles and stuff for the bathroom wash on it will fail (eventually). Any old wood finish (satin, gloss, egg shell) will give some protection. If you want a longer term solution you could opt for an external satin or gloss product. I'd go oil base over water base due to...

The ground floor will be floating, stuck together or laid on a sticky underlayment. Upstairs you need to nail, tongue tight screw or float per the ground floor. In the hall I assume you will use a carpet and underlay. Hardwood floor 18mm plus underlay = ~22mm, carpet plus cloud type underlay...

Ideal standard are my throne of choice.

Strange one. Only on plasterboard and the previous coating stays and it only your new coating that lifts. Have you tried another paint type such as Dulux trade or even a completely different Co?

Is the a heavy smoker in the house, do you use open fires, would there be contamination of the surface to be painted? Have you tried good old fashioned sugar soap and then a rinse off? On the paint, is it new, has it been stored at user temp prior to application?

On sashes and any wood to glass I tend to go 2-3mm on to the glass. The idea being that water runs off the glass and off the paint. If the paint stopped on the putty, if the putty moves away, it would allow water to get behind and rot the window wood and / or blow the putty when the water...