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Correct. In the UK at least.

FYI, your cm907 is the thermostat, and you most likely have a programmer near to your boiler. With Nest Thermostat 3rd Gen, the heatlink would be placed where your programmer is - as this will have the requisite wiring for L/N and connection to your boiler and/or motorised valves. The actual...

Same! I could be wrong (and I dont have a reference to where I saw this) but I'm sure I have read that some boilers allow the dry switch / 230V input to fire the boiler *and* the OT terminals to modulate it. Whether the nest would work in this fashion, I dont know. You cannot have multi-zone...

The display going off was the main reason I sent Hive back. I think the marketing is quite misleading. Having said that, as Im discovering, it's the same with Wiser too. Although arguably the display is less important as you have individual room control.

Can you isolate your HW cylinder? Once done, you should get no water from your hot tap (or a dribble at most). If you have a faulty mixer valve, you'll get cold water coming out of your hot tap.

Ensure your hw cylinder (if you have one) return is the last tee to prevent reverse circulation.

Having installed both hive and nest, I found hive to be very straightforward, as opposed to nest which is slightly more involved if you want to repurpose the existing thermostat wires to provide 12V power to the Nest. The hive thermostat is battery only, so the existing thermostat wires (if...

Which boiler do you have? The Siemens RDJ10 install manual shows that LX and L1 are volt free contacts. The hive will require N and L - so get a multimeter out and check the grey and brown wires for permanent live. Chances are, the grey is not connected at all. If you have N and L, and...

The Novice is right. A and D are common and so need to be linked to L to provide 230V switching. I do not think the T6R-HW is internally linked looking at the manual.

This is just what I have observed when having it done: 1. Clean strainer. 2. Check safety valves. 3. Check EV and recharge if necessary. If you have no EV, then the air bubble should be replenished, though IME, not all of them do this by default.

There's a strainer in the pressure reducing valve. Have that cleaned as part of your service, it may be partially blocked reducing flow.

I don't think the OP intends to use the TRV's, just the wall stat. OP - your understanding is not correct at all. I'd seriously advise getting a professional in. However, use the following information as you will (I'm not familiar with either the boiler or the stat, so am relying on the manuals...

Check if it's connected to X1 (230V) or X106 (24V). If the former, then yes you can replace it. If the latter, then you will need to make sure the hive is connected to RT on X1 !! And the eagle eyed person sounds very clever indeed :=)

Stem is absolutely right. I assumed a system boiler / zone valve configuration.

I think you may be right. OP, if you're handy with a multimeter, you should be able to diagnose this yourself. Google "Y Plan" heating system to see how it should work and go from there. Otherwise, you need a heating engineer to check the wiring for you.

More importantly, "HW off" from programmer supplies voltage to the grey wire - this combined with live on the white wire from the room stat, means the 3 port valve would be in "heating only" mode. OP says that with HW off, but cylinder thermostat set high (and room stat is off), the boiler...

The Hive receiver replaces your programmer, if you have one. The old thermostat wires are not required, as the Hive thermostat is battery powered. However, the 2 wires must be joined to form a full circuit, else your heating will not work. OR the wires need to be disconnected from your junction...

Pm'd you a pic

Yes. I tried this. I put a 25-80 on. It worked, but I preferred the hydraulic separation, and not having to use a non-domestic pump.

Depends - with the Vaillant wiring centre, yes. Because the boiler is fired via ebus, and the zone valve SL is disconnected. This could power your pump, and given the incoming Grey Live is off a switched spur, would mean it would be suitable regardless of current draw. However, in an S-Plan...