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This is what my wiring centre looks like: https://heatingcontrols.honeywellhome.com/products/Systems/Sundial-S-Plan-Plus/ (check under the downloads section for a diagram). The system pump is then wired to the boiler SL and the boiler pump is wired directly to the boiler.

I have/had a megaflo wiring centre and a honeywell one. But they are just junction boxes. This is a somewhat custom wiring job. I don't have a Vaillant wiring centre - in fact, you should check if the live coming from the VRxx is able to power the pump or not. In a standard S Plan setup, the...

I had this concern also. So I put in 50mm adapters to allow me to replace my 130mm domestic circulator with a 180mm semi commercial circulator, without any pipework alteration, if the former was not adequate enough.

You could use the SL from the thermostat (brown wire to honeywell motorised valve) to power the pump. I had this setup prior to my LLH install to power a separate pump on my d/s circuit. The only issue with it would be if the MV failed to open, the pump would run regardless, which could cause it...

I did something similar with a 438 boiler. Couple of points I'd make, which may be useful. 1. It may be worth considering a single pump for the boiler and a single pump for the system side. With the boilers hex resistance taken away, you may find the system resistance is enough to be overcome...

The hive thermostat runs on batteries, so can be placed anywhere. The hive receiver goes in place of your existing programmer and connects wirelessly to the thermostat (and to the hub, which needs to be plugged into your router). I was extremely disappointed to find the hive thermostat...

Sorry - I didnt read your original post properly, and missed the part about checking d.9. You are right, though. The front panel control should be set on maximum and the vsmart should vary the flow temperature. Setting the front panel lower would work with or without an ebus controller - so...

Which boiler do you have? Can you check setting d9 - this should show what temperature your vsmart is requesting: d.09 Heating flow set target temperature that is set on the eBUS room thermostat

Having had filters of various brands over the years, one thing in common is that after a period of time (some sooner than others), they do not seal properly after cleaning, and are usually then over tightened, when new seals should have been bought. Therefore, I've now gone with the type that...

You may find your installer can source the item for less. Either way, as has already been said, if there's a problem later, it's usually a false economy to try and save a few quid by sourcing the item yourself. You need to weigh up the saving against that potential risk.

Tapworks AD11. Similar price, and they've been around for a long time, in operation for years without issue...

The monument 3450g is a good option. About two thirds of the price of the Super Fire 2.

If your EV fails (or your air bubble needs replenishing), you will quickly see the pressure rise on the HW inlet when the cylinder is heating. You will also hear your Pressure Relief Valve slowly start to trickle to release this pressure.

I got bored of recharging my megaflo airgap every 3-6 months and had a potable external EV fitted. I wouldn't buy an overpriced megaflo next time around.

This is a genuine question, not an attempt to be facetious. But why can an EV designed for an unvented system not be used on CH if the charge pressure is adjusted appropriately? The opposite, as already explained, cannot be used. So aside from the extra expense of an unvented EV, is there...

To add - clean pressure reducing valve strainer.

Which is no different to a system boiler. Not sure how this is relevant?

Unless space is at a premium, I'd prefer a heat only boiler with an external expansion vessel and pump in a sealed configuration. Makes replacing items far simpler. Replacement items are usually cheaper - eg. The expansion vessel for most system boilers is far more expensive than a generic...

That's a fair comment given the OP specifically said he wants it recommissioned. Did he mean that in the literal sense, though, or did he mean he just wanted it up and running again and checked over? If the latter, I'd go with Motman's suggestion: And then have it serviced, as it would be...

The system was working and has remained unchanged. Its simply been drained, unused for 18 months and a couple rads added. Not sure why it needs everything you've quoted. But either way, a service (which I suggested in my original post) would cover those things. Unless you're charging £400...