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Sorry - Me being a numpty - Yes.... Burner.

This is part of Core Domestic Gas Safety and you should be fully conversant with this if working in your own or someone else's. If it's a long run and you have pulled out flaked of sulphides; then I would suggest they will need a new gas run rather than a transco visit; but check that meter...

Had to edit post as missed a key point - You must now check the working gas pressure at the inlet.

Do you have 20 +/- 1mb WORKING pressure at the gas meter? If not - CALL TRANSCO 0800 111 999 You need 20mb working pressure at the inlet +/- 1mb :wink: If yes - Gas pipe undersized/blocked (Quote them for a repipe) or inlet filter (if fitted) blocked.

Suprima's are a notorious bug-bear... If the pilot is igniting; then I would recheck the ignition lead and earth connection again for breakages; contact on the board and more importantly that the pilot is spread over the gap between the ignition probe and earthing point.... Sometimes a little...

They are a direct replacement as the body is the same size - But the wiring is different... Some systems have an ancillary switch; some don't; so you'll need to work out if the old tower valve had an ancillary in it... I'm sure it did by the fact that you had enough wires to do a "perfect"...

You'll need them on the outlet of the pump before the shower mixer.

Phewww! Putting a 3-way valve in will do the job with some ancillary controls like room stat and cylinder stat.... Looks like you inherited a DIY system on day 1.... Unlucky begger.

You can do.... Lots of people do; although personally I try to keep my piperuns short where possible and would much rather consider coupling up elswhere; then decomission the pipework that's not needed entirely.

First off; back to basics - Check the inlet working pressure....

Part L ... http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/england/professionals/en/4000000000562.html Energy efficiency; lag types and what needs to be lagged etc...

^^^^^ Alteration to the above if you are a sparks... Time to crack out the wiring diagram and rewire your heating system.

I definately agree with Dan on this one... My advice is get in someone who is competant at wiring up heating systems - This is not a two minute job if the wiring was never completed in an organised fasion on the first install - Like most systems... Or trot back to the heating shop and get...

Just remember, the replacement will now need to meet Part L requirements ;)

But I'm sure it was spring return - Ie; the motor opens the valve and a spring pulls it back to the closed position when the motor turns off.... Check for a spring in there if you still have it.

It's not about pressure - It's about the flow rate that can actually pass through the valve; having a tank with shower pumps and multiple sets of wide bore taps creates a buffer so you don't air lock up and run dry. As for the heating - Depends on the boiler/system/etc - Do a search...

I was under the impression that the MP3-22C was a spring return valve and the SDMV2304 was a unishare motor open/motor close valve... If someone else can confirm this; you have bought the wrong valve and your system will now need rewiring.

The small tank is the feed and expansion tank from the central heating... This larger tank should be fine if reduced, so long as you have not got a shower pump or cold water booster pump as this may drain the tank too quickly.

That looks like the inlet standing pressure; you need to check the inlet working pressure. If it's ok; replace the gas valve as you shouldn't really be running it that low under-pressure.

You need two pair of grips... One for the locknut that's on the outside wall of the tank and one to either hold the nut connecting the body of the valve inside the tank or to grip the threaded part on the outside of the tank depending on the actual age of the valve. If it's brass; it could be...