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The only benefit to having a tank is if you ever have your water cut-off you'll always have that "tank" of water in the loft.... But how often is that? Once in 6 years or so for a day? Hmmmmm.... Think I'd agree with gas4you on this one 100% BTW; don't forget you may need to update...

Turn your mains supply off; removed the ballvalve and head down to B&Q and get yourself a new one... It's bank holiday today so you have until 16:00 to buy yourself another one if you want it done today.

You are really going to need to be more descript about the type of system this guy has installed... a) Black? Painted black, black plastic or it was simply dark in there? b) Hot water tank as in the water in it was hot, or this is the cold storage tank that supplies the hot water, or is...

What Sunvic 3 Port did you use?

You won't actually get equal pressures if one is pumped and one is mains... Ideally you'd want to run a seperate supply of cold from the tank to the pump. This would be my advice to the client anyway.

If you have builders in and the lead exposed; I personally would get the lead ripped out and replaced to prevent water contamination - Do it whilst the opportunity is there. As for the repair method; I will expect the builders to wrap it and hope for the best - We all know what they can...

So, yes... The hot water comes on if you switch on the heating, correct? ------------- To confirm the valve orientation: There should be an "A" and "B" on the valve outlets.... The "A" should go to the pipe which goes to the radiators and the "B" should go to the pipe...

Agreed - Train of thought being that possibly it's shifting enough to hit the microswitch, but not quite enough to pull the diverter all the way over into position.

In short - Just turn the stopcock off and open the taps - Nowt more technical than that (Unless you break the stopcock that is ;) ) When you cut the pipe; use a pipeslice and put a ball-o-fix valve on the end of it - You can then have the ball-o-fix turned off and re-instate the water supply...

From your description you have missed out some key points... Is the appliance making any noises? Does it seem like it wants to do something and does it always light and go off after 20 seconds on overheat? One last question - Is your heating working? Sounds like a pump; but to...

Does the hot water come on if you switch on the heating? If so; you've probably fitted the valve the wrong way round :wink:

If it's stuck "open" enough to make you describe it as "stream" I would suggest that you need the PRV changed - Get a suitably qualified engineer.... Job is not much work and shouldn't cost much so long as that is the only problem.

Any half-decent electrician or heating will be able to do the job.... It falls inbetween two trades - Generally I would suggest a heating engineer; when you speak with them - Explain the situation and try to find out what skill-level they have in electrical diagnosis.

Had a thought..... Check the pressure differential tubes coming into the water section on the diverter valve for a partial restriction. I believe some of these also come with a filter - Ensure this has been cleaned.

You need an electric meter before you go any further; I have seen a few systems wired direct into the consumer unit on their own 5A MCB so nothing surprises me these days. There is a high chance that if there was a fused spur between the MCB and the clock; then that would still be in-tact as...

Ok; well the wiring should be the same... N, L, 1, 2, 3, 4 Before wasting time by going any further; make sure you have 240v between N & L... As I would suggest this is where the problem lies. The CHeating system should be protected by a 3A switched, fused spur.... When you say...

What clock is it? Is there an L & N on the backplate that you can put an electrical test meter onto to see if there is power there?

This is very rare for the problem to persist once the diverter has been changed - In fact - Never come accross it in the 6 years I have been in the industry. However; my train of thought is possible the DHW Heat Exchanger as this is now the only common part to the heating and hot water...

Are the rads still coming on?

TBH it would depend on where it was going and it's intended application. The vaillant 937's are a well built bit of kit and seem to handle water flow really well... With the bosch 440's being a great bit of kit; but a nightmare to work on certain components when they go wrong. I have never...