Search results

yes, but rightly so.. some people aren't made with the kind of logical mind that it takes to track down curveball faults like this..

what's not to follow? sounds perfectly simple to me.. bad contact in the fitting... High resistance connection gets hot expands and pushes the contact harder against the lamp connection lower resistance connection light comes on..

yup, ironically, freezers don't work when it's too cold for them.. :D

SWA glands are substantially thicker than the wall of a coupler BAS, with only 3-4mm wall thickness further reduced by the thread being cut into it. brass bushes do get squeezed in a little if the thread is tight, and some of the more recent ones have sheared the "head" sections off due to...

wouldn't moving it down mean it's where you want the door to be? if it is a door you intend to put in then surely you want to move it sideways, not vertically? :roll:

you on virgin Bacho? mine keeps dropping out for a few seconds all weekend and today..

buy some resin and do what you said, drill the hole bigger and resin the anchor in.....

pyro to the fittings.. terminated into couplers on the backboxes so that the end of the gland does not protrude into the box..

now you're just bragging if you're trying to say the end dangles in the water...

seems a bit daft to have 2 hobs and 2 ovens though.. unless you're setting up a cooking school or need one setup in another part of the kitchen, it would probably be cheaper and easier to get a range cooker with 6-8 rings and 1.5-2 ovens surely? this would of course require a larger supply...

really? do you often get nekid and soaking wet whilst having your feet or other body parts in contact with the water in the toilet bowl?

safe zones extend vertically above and below the boxes as well as horizontally so detouring the cables around the boxes is the safest option .. shall I wait for the "but then the cable is out of the zone where it goes round the corner of the box" reply?.. no.. put quite simply, if a...

one would presume that the differing height in domestic and non domestic is to do with predicted occupancy by less abled persons.. A hotel would have specific rooms for people with wheelchair access requirements ( wider doors, grab rails in the bathrooms etc ) so those rooms would be spec'd...

Not Isolation in that case since you are not disconnecting all of the live conductors, the neutral remains connected.. dear god I hope you were joking..? you have no idea that the cable is there with the front of the socket or accessory removed.. the box gets a little lose and a future...

Do NOT advise him to move it himself or to call the DNO and report that "the cutout is damaged" or "he can hear a crackling sound"..

internal fuses gone? ( some have them, not sure on that type ) fuse gone in the FCU?

moved to where? if it's the other side of the house and needs half the road excavated to run in a new cable then it's a whole different ballgame to if it's to the other end of the garage with only having to shorten the existing cable..

on the assumption that your dimmer switch is correctly rated for the load and spec'd for the transformers etc, and that it does not require a neutral, then yes your wiring looks correct for the circuit..

presumably because the tank is in the loft and the water in it is heated by the increase in the loft temperature during the hot days? it could be that the shower is fed from a cold water tank in the loft and that the reason it heats up when the hot water tank is heated would be to do with...

try posting links to the full size pictures and not the piddly little thumbnails, can't see anything from those..