Search results

Never come across one with pre drilled holes yet! And beware with expansion anchors if close to edge of block work as you can destroy the block

My first thought was it's fixed with cleats, but not 100% after seeing the plaster/paint on the wall. It is still possible though. The way they work is it's a metal strap that clips/screws to the Upvc door ( it's a upvc door , not a Composite Door ), then that strap is fixed to the block work...

Absolutely!

Unless the bottom bead has packers and allow drainage then the recognised way of fitting the glass would.have been to fill the void around the sealed unit with a clear Low Modulus Neural cure silicone, thus not allowing any water to get to the seal of the unit, this would protect the sealed...

There are several potential causes for this. someone skimped on the sealant when the windows were glazed Beads not 'capped 'once glazed Rebates werent treated before glazing maintenance ( eg painting and staining )on the windows/doors wasn't kept up Putty dries out and cracks , letting water...

With the door open try and operate the door locking mechanism. If it works fine then it's an issue with door alignment. If not then you have an issue with either the door gearbox, or the cylinder barrel. Depending on how good you are with diy depends on whether you need someone who...

Looks like the original was fitted with a double sided security tape , the replacement looks very much like white silicone but possibly CT1 Unless the 'silicone/ct1 ' comes into contact with the sealed units black butyl sealant then it will do no harm to the unit and just looks really messy

That would work , and as you say, less locking points. Have to say it's normally the gearbox at fault ( and the bottom shootout drops...unusual for top ) , and gearboxes aren't too bad price wise. But if your happy with the lack of locking points ( potentially two depending on size as the...

Well you can already see in your second picture that the screw is going no where, there's your issue. Suggest longer screws, angled to attach the actual building, ideally fixing foam too but you're not going to get that in. Good news about being able to lift it though and no visible damage to...

Normally they are held on by screws that go through the handle backplate on the inside and screw into the back of the backplate on the outside handle (.so you cant access them from outside ) . Have you tried prising out the blanking plate above the key? Also looks like one at the bottom, those...

Seeing the overall set up, think the only option is have the window frame removed, which include the yellow section below the glass section,and hope it's just a failed timber and nothing more setious

Obviously I cant see the whole property but pictures.2 and 3 show the line of silicone and where the cill now sits, and yes its about 4 inches ... but before you look at subsidence , that cill.is joined to the window, so it may , hopefully , still.just be a case of the window dropping . If its...

Can you physically push the window frame back up to close that gap?, if so you may get away with ' packing ' it underneath but that will depend on the construction of the house. If you can push it up , and pack it, then get some frame fixers ( concrete screws ) that use a t30 torx bit and screw...

If it had been mechanically fitted ( eg screwed, ) to the walls then it shouldn't have dropped at all , open the window and see if there are any screws going into the walls. It may still be on ' straps " in which case it's mechanically fitted too.. see if the frame is physically loose

Sounds pretty normal to me

You could probably foam the bigger gaps ( dont use a standard tin , buy a gun applicator and a gun tin ... more control on smaller places ), then when you wallpapered up to the window, run a bead of caulk round the window sealing all the gaps

Im afraid those particular type aren't. You could try removing the.glass and toe and heeling the doors, plenty of videos on you tube explaining it

Could visit local tip too... sometimes they have old windows people have taken out themselves

That sounds more like adjustment... if you have the door open and operate the handle.to lock it , is it still stiff? If not the door lock is out of alignment with the keeps. Could be that the door has dropped slightly or bowed or even just expanded in the heat if its only just started to happen

Agree with Crank39 .. satin ( or satinova) is probably the best whatever you do , DO NOT use solar reflective or mirrored film...when it's dark outside and you put that light on your bathroom is suddenly very visible!