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Yeah I'll second what Crank is saying , old Ali seemed to be an odd case... most Ali these days drains the same as pvc , either face drain or base drain. Best suggestion is Cranks , remove glass and see where the drainage goes lol

Unfortunately yes that's the correct way.. might take a bit of water before it leaks though

Sounds like it's be made for drainage. Do you know how long the windows have been in, as sounds and looks like concealed drainage, which drains out the bottom/underneath of the frame . As its sealed to the leadtray/cill there is no where for water to escape and I very much suspect it's going...

You'll get a 16mm unit from any reputable double glazing manufacturer. And glass size for a 606 should be 988 x 994. ( visible glass size ,.. 962 x 930 )..obviously check you are happy with the size as I'm not being held responsible if it's wrong lol.... make sure you get at least toughened...

They look like upvc windows on a lead tray/cill . Is that right? If so where's the drainage? Can't see any face drain caps/holes and gaps between bottom if window and cill is sealed so if frames are concealed/base drainage the water can't get out

Why would the way Crank is suggesting cause the door to sag over time?

Aluminium frames can be externally or internally beaded, depending on what you ordered. As Notch says, depends where your drainage is

The glass won't condensate in new double glazing, as its warmer ( exactly as it's designed to do ). Hence your neighbours aren't seeing it, But double glazing doesn't get rid of the water vapour, that's still in the air, so as I said the next coldest point in the house ( usually an external...

Ars you sure it's not a failing set of hinges causing you to see daylight on the hinge side?

New pvc won't solve it. It will just move it to the next coldest point of the property , Usually a wall behind furniture. You need to look if you are causing excesss moisture in the air , such as drying clothes indoors , cooking or showering with no extractor fans running. The only sure way...

Even back then , most systems still required you to remove gasket internally first..or had security tape. So actually most systems that are externally glazed are fine ( there are one or two that aren't). No one complains about wooden windows and the majority of those are externally beaded.

Little concerned the local company are worried about breaking the beading! It's actually quite unusual to break upvc beading of everything is done correctly

This is simpler than you think providing that putty is not rock solid and the beads are in good condition. We do this all the time in wooden frames.. you shouldn't need to cut the pins , should be able to ' pry ' the beads out with a stiff scraper , same as pvc. You'll need to wedge the glass...

Certainly doable and sometimes add ons are used hinge side to make sure hinges clear internal walls. Only thing I will say about it is you will need long screws and sometimes this can mean the fixing isn't always as secure as it could be ... in that it could vibrate and twist slightly when the...

It's a wheelchair threshold , so the drainage shouldn't be an issue, as they usually drain through the front of the threshold , effectively making them face drain. Not sure where that addon is being used? . If the door height is right , and the door will clear your internal flooring then I can...

https://www.fixdirect.co.uk/product/concrete-screws/?attribute_length=7.5+x+60mm+(100+per+box)&utm_source=Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy%20Copy%20Copy%20Google%20Shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=1179&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjcyIo6KniAMVpoBQBh2YwTzAEAQYAyABEgIkWfD_BwE These are the...

Taking all youve said into account 2450 for the pvc isn't way off what I'd be roughly judging in my head , it will vary region to region , supplier to supplier . As goes the wood price , the guy who does out wooden windows always tells me never to second guess and always get him to price it ...

Ideally you don't want to go through the first layer but occasionally it happens when not concentrating properly, honestly with proper ' torx' concrete screws the screw heads normally sit fairly flush , not like that s crew you have there as a fitting

Yes... don't countersink too far just enough for the heads to sit flush...it's thicker than you think ...a good few mm thick and even if you counter sink too far you'll hit thr next chamber and can just cover over the oversize countersink hole

Not a fan of that at all. Guessing they are ' knockin' screws ? We use a window fixing screw with a torx head , 6mm hole into the concrete , countersunk, very rarely do they pull through the plastic unless you are over eager with the countersink