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you could either cut out the back and side of the unit and patch up afterwards, or/and carefully remove a section of the boxing which houses the pipework, maybe a combination of the two. One of the adjustable feet may have to be removed in the process. Either way, put some screws into the...

I'm guessing you've fitted the worktops before the blank panels.......be much easier job fitting w/tops last. Apologies if I've guessed wrong. Steve

The base unit sides will fit tight to the wall but the back panel of the unit will leave a gap behind it of usually 60-70mm to allow for pipework. Once you get the delivery and make one up (assuming flat-pack) you'll see what I mean. The unit is 565mm, plus door at approx 18-20mm, leaves an...

If the mitred joint is only at one end ie square cut the other end, then what I always do is cut the mitre first, and then cut the piece to length afterwards. Gets the right length every time, so long as the mitre is cut correctly. Also helps to glue (mitre bond) the pieces together before...

What are you fixing into.........wood/brick/block?? Steve

Two things you could try................... Firstly, if there are 3 hinges to fit with each door you could try adjusting them to suit to see if it improves the problem or............. Personally I would lay them against the wall for a few days, turned around so that they may straighten...

A neat fit is not necessarily dependant on the new skirting having a perfect 45 deg cut. Much depends on whether the existing return ends are cut at 45 deg, also whether the chimney breast is square, also a piece of timber skirting 7" high is likely to be or develop a curve (the annual rings...

I reckon this is caused either by a ring of glue around the plug, or, more likely a slight burn mark from using the screw digger. In your shoes I would get another test piece and try cutting the hole for the plug with various cutters, maybe a sharp flat bit, auger bit, etc. and see the...

Hi there, Depends on the size of the curve. Bigger curve has a different solution to this problem. With this problem you would probably get away with doing a small piece of skirting at the corner, 22.5 degree cuts at ends, and running the longer lengths into it. Any gaps on top will...

If you use hangers then watch out for hammered fingers - ouch!! The twist nails are short and fiddley and the holes in the hangers never seem to be big enough to take them. Best to hold each nail with plyers rather than fingers when fixing the hangers - saves a lot of pain and cursing...

Don't know about the second pic. The first one, ah! so familiar. Done a whole housing estate a few years ago where almost all the doors in every house had this problem ( outer skin coming off) and had to be replaced or repaired. The doors were from Canada, and were constructed with a...

If you are doing masons mitres then as long as the worktop jig is longer than the depth of the worktop ie 620mm worktop/650mm jig - there's no problem. The router will just follow through past the end of the worktop when cutting the joint. Clear as mud? Steve :)

I reckon the spindles rattle because the enviroment they are in now is drier than before they were fitted, despite the weather. Rubbing a little pva into the joint where they meet the top and bottom rails should do the trick. Just remember to use a damp rag to remove any excess glue...

not gay