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To confirm that the K2 will do the job, buy a 350 watt electric heater for about £12 and put that in the room. If that & radiator now get the room toasty then the K2 will do it. If not it's get the man in time. Save you spending on the rad & then spending on another rad.

If you search ebay for Grasslin timer there are loads for about £20 and you could just change the clock. Alternatively someting like Drayton programmer & change the whole thing. It is only 5 or 6 wires

Screwfix 80588

Sorry, didn't spot that. Photo not great & I thought I was looking at a male iron - 22mm screwed in. I suspect that your outlet is not 3/4 but is in fact 22mm compression. If this is the case then either cut flange in to cylinder or:

Screwfix Warwick Male Flange ¾" (88212)

From Reliance (RWC) datasheet Installation flexibility: can be installed in any orientation and is available in both hot and cold versions https://www.rwc.co.uk/rwcuk/wp-content/uploads/312-Compact-PRV-Spec-Sheet-04.pdf

The instructions say that but......

boiler has a built in bypass and should not require an external one. If internal bypass has become restricted or blocked you could either check & clean internal one or fit an external

If your flue outlet is not full of ivy, this is going to require professional attention

I am not clear, does it fire or not?

You can ask whatever question that you want. Just that the replies will be limited.

Silicone grease.

did you clean & grease the rod?

So when you pumped up EV, did you check gauge? Still on zero? Probably not so drain to zero, inflate to .8, drain to zero etc etc. Alternatively leave drain off open while you inflate EV The ev should be at .8 with the gauge at zero, then re-fill system

As Terry says, leaking ht exchanger in boiler. The leak will vary with temperature so air slightly warmer, leak slightly worse. re-connect your condense, leave heating isolated and go & run yourself a nice hot bath. Should see a bit of pressure loss then (when it has cooled).

Sounds like it is the boiler. Sometimes it will leak when hot more than when cold. You can either, top up boiler to 1.5, isolate heating circuits, run hot tap for a while to get boiler hot and see what pressure you have lost or, turn boiler off, top up to 2.5, see if water continues to dribble...

Have you perhaps closed off either the flow or return valves beneath boiler?

Choose a radiator that you can live without. Turn off both valves on the rad & drain the water out. Turn one valve back on & the air in the radiator can be your temporary EV untill engineer arrives. Sounds like your analogue gauge is blocked

If both of your showers have 2m head, the reason for the difference in performance may be that 1 has more dirt in the filters than the other. Mira miniduo operates on minimum 1m head and I have used a few on low head applications and been pleased with performance. Not too dear either.