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Could be or perhaps ivy in flue or hole in aps tube.

Drawing a bit of hot water, the boiler fires. Turn off hot water ch continues to run. Problem with flue/APS, boiler turns on for ch, fan runs at 70%, not enough flow to trip APS. Draw HW, fan runs at 100%, Aps trips & boiler fires. No guarantee just the first area that I would be checking.

They don't normally operate the switch unless "thrown" open. In the manual position the switch is usually off. Of course he may have some bizarre make of valve.

I would check the microswitch on the diverter but more likely to be a air pressure switch related problem. Not really enough info to tell. Have you got ivy in your flue terminal?

Or roomstat or time clock or zone valve motor. Not sure that I understand this . You seem to be saying that CH works but everything else points to heating not working. Do I understand correctly that: HW OFF CH valve manually open Rads get hot

My guess, and it is a guess, just badly made. When you cut it out it may be perfectly normal inside

The flexi seal adaptor couplings with a jubilee clip come in a variety of sizes. Sure you will be able to find one that fits. https://www.flexseal.co.uk/assets/Data-Sheets-Folder/Flexseal-Adaptor-Couplings-Datasheet.pdf

It is diverter valve not properly closing the heating circuit. It is a mechanical item so should be straightforward. You can buy a complete exchange refurbished valve for £45 if you can not see the problem.

Yes replacing the actuator head IF it is in fact the problem. It could still be cylinder stat, programmer or room stat. What I was saying, with valve manually opened, remove cylinder stat to keep hw &ch running pending test & replace failed component.

To keep it going just remove the cylinder stat from the cylinder

So nothing is connected to the coil in the cylinder?

Have you removed the shower door? Your video doesn't quite travel far enough to tell. Reason I ask is, the sealant hidden behind the door frame is a very important part to get right.

Thanks Duz, now we are all hoping that we never need it!

Is your heating tank fed or sealed system?

Can you put a copy on here? May be useful to someone

Sorry, so it doesn't. I have this, not much but may help:

If it is the Optimax HE 31C

The boiler shuts down when it is up to temperature (Return is hot) so it is circulating around either the cylinder or the "easiest" rad and going back to boiler. Is it any better on heating only? Is there a rad that gets particularly hot? Is there a by-pass, perhaps in the airing cupboard?

While the power is OFF, remove the cover on the side of the pump and see how wet it is in there. If it has water over all the connections this will cause the trip to blow. Unless water can have dripped in there from above, tracked along the cable, this will be a new pump.