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cdbe you and I might think like that but this is planning. It is not called a jungle and a game for nothing! Good luck with the next one anyway.

Well it's good news you have identified the leak. However it sounds like you need some more work doing! As for the roofing firm, it depends on what was agreed contractually. If you asked them to replace the roof and they have done so but the leak is related to the chimney, then I wouldn't have...

I know this looks like hindsight but on page one tony1851 clearly warned that this would be a likely outcome for you. I am just surprised you went ahead with the NCS application, which is designed to cater for 'in the same style' applications with no objection from the neighbour. As the...

Your architect doesn't have to have an official qualification, as odd as that sounds. However Imdemnity insurance is a good idea. Unless your situation is unusual, most people use a reputable loft conversion company who will offer a design service for regs and planning. It is really important...

I hope your computer survived Wessex :). It is a sort of local practice where I am, as a number of local designers work in the modular building industry and do drawings as a sideline, it seems to be a long standing custom where they offer half the money back on a refusal. cdbe I am sure there...

OK I have an Estates Gazette bookie wookie on Housing Defects. They say thermal cracking tends to go in a straight line more, through the bricks and right down to the dpc but not below. They also say a crack soon after building is more likely to be a moisture crack. This is cases where the...

23vc I have read this can lead to problems unfortunately. For anyone else reading it is vital you get the insurance sorted before you commence works. For anyone considering self-building or project managing their extension the Homebuilding and Renovating website has some great articles on...

I think you either filet it into the dpc or you stick it to the wall. Unfortunately I don't know the technical explanation for this, just the principle, which is the junction has to be watertight at the point the dpm and dpc meet, so as to keep damp from contacting the wall.

Sorry I somehow managed to miss that roof bit. Could it be the flashing or apron on the chimney?

Yes good point, I get that. As you can see I hadn't thought about the idea of turning the whole zone into a solid floor :rolleyes:. Good idea! So remove the sleeper walls and as the ground is concreted at 57cm underneath would it in theory be possible to start from there, I think 60cm is the...

Have you been in the loft when it is raining? Perhaps it could be a tile problem. It doesn't take a lot of water to make these marks and it isn't always very obvious when in the loft. Maybe get a few buckets up there and see if you get anything. Personally I would not be thinking about...

Thanks Woody. Looking at this neighbour project as a way to learn, they have removed the wall and chimney breast and have a 6m by 3.5m space. Thinking in terms of best practise and quality, am I right it would be best to dig out the 8sq m tile area, fit insulation dpm etc and then replace all...

Has the house been empty for a time? I know it must feel like a shock but if you can get some fires going the thermal mass of the wall will be good, it's just it may take a lot of heat to warm it up if it has stood empty. Ofcouse if you are cooking and have no fan the condensation will get...

So if you have a south facing wall wouldn't this be very frequent, as Woody seems to be describing very typical English climate! I am not saying you are wrong Woody, just interested.

The damp expert Peter Ward has some great youtube vids on this. On some of his vids it turns out the cement render at the front is trapping what may be condensation moisture in the wall as it can't exit from inside to out. But the possible problem you have is the render could be playing a part...

Thanks a lot for this legepe I am mulling over doing the same in a 10sq m space so it's been really helpful. I am no expert here but believe you are right to be concerned about mositure, especially condensation, heading for that cold spot where the concrete meets wall. But the idea is you form...

They once did one on DIYsos in Littlehampton that looked a bit similar to this. The good news is they did fix it all! It could be worse, at least it is not listed I take it. Sounds a very interesting dwelling.

So if they were to go this way, as I understand it they would measure the damp level with a hygrometer and if OK grind it level and use F Ball Stopgap F77 or similar??? Is it a case of relying on the meter or making a judgement call as to the age and condition of the concrete???

Thanks for the pics, enjoyed them. The thing to bear in mind about this is that perhaps your neighbour did it a few years ago and the policy may have changed since then. Every Local Authority has their own policy on hip to gable changes because there is an architectural school of thought that...

OK I have bumped this old thread I started because I have a question about liquid dpm. An identical house nearby are doing a renovation, they have removed their right hand wall in the photo above to form a kitchen diner. They have removed the tiles, there is now a highly uneven 1920's concrete...