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When was the pump replaced ?

I go with gasman, had many like this 9 times out of 10 its a blockage, the sort a power flush and chemical wont shift, hard coke stuck in an elbow or T even a screw driver wont shift.

As above, Flow restrictor on cold inlet valve, even more restricted with scale/crud.

I install and repair but based in Kent, and at 12 yrs old probably trying to die or uneconomical to repair.

Do check them out Iv fitted 12 of them, no probs whatsoever, but in the morning I have 2 vaillants and 1Ferroli to repair.

Most people haven,t heard of them, but given the choice I wouldnt fit anything else, Vaillant and worcester bosch just over priced and well marketed, nothing special and have their fair share of problems like cheap boilers.

Hi. Google Intergas combi boilers and all the information is there, I would say a 28kw would be fine for your requirements.

Intergas combi, no diverter valve, 5yr warranty and 10yr warranty on heat exchanger. You don,t need a mag cleaner, top boiler.

Probably heat plate exchanger, not a bad job on this model its right at the front, but you will need a GSI to check it out or change.

Dont think Iv seen any of the posts mention turning off the the filler loop and turning the mains back on, then you can get on with your life.

Adjust the flow rate from the stop cock.

Yep rather use plumbers M than the seals provided, great seal.

Try flushing the system fitting a magfiltre/scale reducing unit then add inhibitor :wink:

quote Should add that this is a nice guy with good reputation so no criticism on that score. So what,s the problem then, think if this nice guy with a good reputation knew you was asking advice on here that he,s already answered you may have to look else where for a fitter.

You would not have heating if the heating valves were closed so I think the system has just had a bit too much pressure put into it.

If the pressure is holding steady at 2.3 bar when system is drained think you,ll find the boiler heating valves are closed ???????????

If the leak has been repaired there should be no more pressure loss problems the only other things that will cause pressure loss is the EV or PRV. Assuming they are ok all should be fine. Venting air from the system will cause pressure loss.

Vent one of the radiators to reduce the pressure back to 1.5 bar. This should be the end of the problem. If the pressure has been sitting on 2.3 bar this will rise due to the heating expansion.

Its an easy job, But you need to drain the heating circuit within the boiler and re pressurise the boiler when new TRV is fitted. Would suggest at this point you look at the boiler manual and decide if you want to DIY.

Not a common fault, usually caused by system being over pressurised, change the prv and that will sort it.