Search results

Not used personally but Google finds these. There is metal good lights about, ive moved now but i had some black metal lanterns that stated corrosion resistant and ten years on they still looked good

There won't be no markings all you have is the drawing on the ballast. Look at a similar 2 pin PL lamp, the L ( though via a ballast) and N are connected diagonally. Best consult instructions when you get it

looking at your pic them two plastic lugs to the right of the label look like the mounting clips for the starter holder Sorry maybe there the connection block actually

Starters are only integral with a 2 pin lamp.As yours is 4 pin its either running an electronic ballast that dont need a starter or has a starter behind the white plate

If your handy you can simply screw in a lampholder like this, cutting the brown and blue wires and connecting direct, then fit whatever lamp will fit

There was 2 photos with post 1 but now seem gone

The Starbreakers are normal width the wider ones were Polestar

Theres also a very rarely used green one

Yes thats fine,the 48w driver will run fine at just 24 watt, make sure the lamps you buy state they will work on DC like the ones you originally posted,

You just do the maths 8x3w or 8x5w which one is lower than the 30w driver shown ?. The driver W must always exceed the total lamp W

im sure when push fit first came out there was no grubscrew, just a tab inside riveted on that put pressure on the conduit

HSS used to hire out the stuff to do it

The regs do also allow a socket to be spurred from an mcb not just a socket

Yes that is confusing, until now I was not aware they were called flush, they must have been both surface and flush back in the day, however the only reason I can think of is that the larger grid banks can be 4,12, 16 and even 24 gang,I don't think any such mk flush box existed back in...

The new grid plus frames are much chunkier, my mistake I forget both frame types have adjustment, so the back box adjustment like on the Appleby flush box is less critical. As you can see by the chunkyness of the new grid plus frame, I feel you would not get much adjustment up/ down with...

not sure why tlc say that, when i have time will post pic of them in an old 90s mk cataloque. Not sure the new gridplus frame would actually fit inside that smaller box, have you tried that before you flush yours in? We rip loads of them out both single and twin as when the grid switches break...

The upper boxes are mk but actually surface boxes there mk grid old style, now obsolete. Standard deep knockout boxes were used then and even now for flush if needed. There metal cover plate was much slimmer then. Back in the day they were commonly used with surface steel conduit, hence...

What boxes do you mean, im pretty sure they do have one knockout in the back centre and four fixing slots, the lack of knockouts i assume because they have prioritised the fixing slots. To me the standard flush boxes with the four rear knockouts often hinder where you want the fixings to go

Post 1 picture looks like a G5.3 push in 12 volt lampholder and MR16 12 volt lamp