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A hager j803 junction box as it needs to be maintenance free as it is inaccessible, bear in mind if the box or any of the cable is less than 50mm deep it will still need to remain in a safe zone once the initial sockets removed

The female version is better, a short bit of rigid conduit to join it to the besa box, then screw the flexi glands that Harry suggests into the thread, throwing the bush aside

If the box is still sound you can get just the guts in the same brand snd fit it in your housing for a fraction of the cost. Bg snd mk are the common types and can be easilyb swopped out in the old box once removed, takes about 2 minutes

Why not use 20mm threaded galv boxes and lids, or easier use threaded plastic wiska boxes and make your own junctions

There's no electrical regulation sgainst it I believe, but the guidance notes regarding building regs, I recall mention they should be fixed to the fabric of the buillding

Could you not wire that suspect choke fitting on its own to one of your spare rcds and see if it trips that on its own

Would you have a spare rcd rattling about, 2 pole latching like in the old consumer units, maybe fit temporary half way round the circuit, if lucky may trip and help break down the faulty, if any, part of the circuit, as its your property sure it can be fitted in a safe manner.

How did you test the rcd, may be worth testing first with the load connected and all switched on, then with the load disconnected from the Rcd. See if theres a substantial difference. Before the days of rcds it was guite common for magnetic chokes to breakdown, sometimes even burning up...

8 foots were an odd fitting, they came in a few versions, 100w seemed to be the most temperamental, they also eerimented using 2 half chokes, meaning each tube used 2 chokes and twin units had series capacitors to eliminate strobing. They I recall were quite problematic if the wrong tube or...

Any new socket would also need Rcd protection

The 18w 2ft tube is WARM WHITE GE colour 29 if that matters

To be honest I don't think you need the DOME PLATES, the fittings you chose, you will fix the bracket to the two fixings in the conduit box and the fittings black shroud will slide up and fit relativrly flush with the box

The plug that plugs into it has no internal fuse, so regardless how it's wired or how many sockets connected the fuse must not exceed 16 amps

Some may frown on doing it, but with the old Mem switch fuses you could bin the porcelain fusewire holders and plug in the newer Mem Eaton Plastic Hrc fuse holders that take 32a SB3 HRC fuses

Just wondering why you stuck the screwdriver in the live :giggle: Does that screwdriver not, as you mentioned show its live via inductance

The other rooms stopped because the wires are now parted, do not join all the blacks together, the black on its own is seperated for a reason

Think Eric may be thinking of reg 552.1.2 Though not to do with isolaters 552.1.2 states: "Every electric motor having a rating exceeding 0.37kW shall be provided with control equipment incorporating means of protection against overload of the motor. This requirement does not apply to a motor...

Regarding your plan rather than the first light start at the middle light then work either way dependant on if it trips. Not ideal way to do things using the mcb to trip. May be better removing the lamps and using the continuity setting on your meter.. As someone mentioned earlier, seems like a...

I feel the same about lever wagos, for situations with solid strands I prefer the NON lever push in wagos. For 6mm they do a Red 3 port, which is ideal for this situation and the cable seems a very tight connection.

I find it's good practise in any situation to reduce the load using the mcbs prior to operating any main switch and reverse this process when switching back on. Not saying its always necessary to isolate the supply via the main switch, the important thing is that safe isolation and test...