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Yes but not for long usually only for about a second i find it quite often, i usually try that before wasting time going to get tube, if it dont light at all then usually its a bigger issue

The only way to test is putting in a tube, some ballasts shut down when the tubes failed this is possibly whats happening

Two or Three 5mm Spring toggles would hold the base back up, as for the wiring part hard to tell but be carefull as may be Live still even with the light switch off.

They are master and slave, or as they call them dimmer and accesory, note the 1 terminal is just a single strapper. You have yet to mention what the other part is of the 2 way, dependant what the wires do and how many between the points , its likely the wires can be refigured for normal 2 way...

Ah just noticed you said PUSH DIMMER,.this may well be part of a slave dimmer set up Could well be L is live Squiggly arrow is output 1 is interlink to other switch If so its not a straightforward swap unfortunately

Not sure to be honest, but if it worked as 2 way before, and assuming the other end is a standard 2 way switch then it is has to be the same as L1 and L2. Personally i would check the other switch at the other point, some dimmers are marked and work different to what your maybe used to and...

If used as 2 way then on the new switch L1 and L2 are interchangeble, it does not matter what way round they are if the third is marked com. That so called funny symbol actually means Variable output, Ie the switched Live to the light when used as 1 way, with 2way would sometimes be the...

Mains voltage fittings may not be suitable in a shower ceiling

I recall it was more to do with poor quality led lamps being made so they work either way round, thus voltage on the exposed pins at the other end when fitting live, as you say would be the same with a choke or mains. Also to negate the risk if the led fails and a filament tube placed back...

Osram and others do tubes now that will work in either ECG or CCG (Electronic or conventional control gear) fittings with no messing with wiring. I believe this evolved due to the poor practise of people putting the 240 v direct to the lampholder which in some cases became lethal and also...

773 168 is the wago part number, suitable for solid core cables they are on amazon but a lot dearer, just ensure they state WAGO as theres many clones

If its solid core cables use 8 way wagos

I think maybe you could do that just using channel A that always defaults to the NC contact, use that for the thing to sound, when switched it changes to the NO contact, use that for no sound and connecting the resister Just leave channel B unused

If the load is low link out numerous wagos to make as many outlets as you need. Is this cable stranded or solid

Think he maybe only at the test stage though with Leds and a small battery, not sure what the final project is but seems to involve 1 speaker and 2 sources, still none the wiser from the above post

You have now commoned the Negatives which i and @RandomGrinch were doubttfull about, he will be about soon to advise

Get a Trailing socket from the likes of screwfix and a metre of 1.5mm 3 core flex wire in and fuse the spur at 5 amp

i am no expert on hifi but the problem you may have is when both relays are off, no speaker would be connected to the sources and may have bad consequences for the sources. Something similar to RGs post above with a bit of tweaking may work just join the - lines GREEN BLACK and BLUE together...

Looks to me like if you operate the relays they will short out the source and likely damage it

Seems ok to me, alternatively could you wire into the mirror light then out to the fan, doing away with the J box. The mirror light must be fitted in the Zone its designed for