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OP, As above but are you doing a couple of DIY one-off jobs or do you intend to use the machine for long term stuff? If for one or two jobs then hire a big bad corded router.

You must honor the horizontal joins, the cut must always be at the bottom edge (on the sole plate in studding) no matter if the floor goes up and own, you cut to accommodate it and honor the level join in all runs. Maybe oldbutnotdead said the same thing - apologies if i have repeated you.

OP, In most all the house interior pics you've posted so far each one shows signs of rising damp. There might be a black plastic membrane (DPM) installed under the solid floor - hard to tell? The edges of any DPM would show at the floor to wall abutment ie behind the skirting? And as far as...

Interesting and hopefully cheap, & helpful to DIY'ers. Maybe everyone will buy one and recommend it to their neighbour's.

d000hg, I understand that but my point is not about, a tool for every task, kind of thing. I'm suggesting that knowing the limits, & safety aspects to a tool is necessary before any experimentation. Well trained users can confidently get a tremendous & various range of use from a tool. For...

To my mind, the most dangerous movement with using Table saws is when the operator reaches past the blade - often when they are pushing by hand. And often enough they hand push the piece all the way past the blade, sometimes having to lean over the guard free, high blade. Sweeping sawdust away...

d000hg, "what kind of loser is so desperate for self validation they troll strangers on a DIY forum" Thats so apt and well said, just the thing for characterising a disturbed troll - well done. Just saying but I'd suggest only using saws for their designed purpose after a little safety...

Munroist, it also "comes in very useful" to keep all your fingers. Hand held or Table Circular saws are the most dangerous types of all woodworking machines. No matter what they do on you tube, "adapting a circular saw into a makeshift table saw" is a stupid & very dangerous thing to do. It...

What i'm saying is for you to leave the roof alone. "the timber structure underneath" & the roof covering details will need most attention from what i can see.

The roof in the pics is shot - if its not leaking then leave it alone until it does leak or its being replaced. Replacing that roof will, from what i can see, require the abilities of an experienced flat-roofer. How does this latest roof business fit in with your historic Posting's queries...

OP, After the units have been stripped, & walls & floor are exposed then why not post photos of the floor, the walls, and pics of the ground level outside the kitchen door? You mention cracks - typically, there can be a number of reasons for a concrete slab to crack. You say previous repairs...

You can buy bags of repair mortar from Plumbing or Building Suppliers - small bags just enough for patching up work. All you have to do is add water to the mix. fwiw: concrete is, roughly speaking, mortar with stones added - but you dont need any concrete for the above work. Mortar is...

The pics show a crawl space thats par for the course for such a badly ventilated space - nothing sinister suggesting say dry rot for instance. The wood debris suggests previous work, and in time it would be best practice to remove all wood debris. Given the sloping site the sub area soil is...

I didn't say anything about destroying or not destroying any patch of ceiling but until the DL positions and cable runs are worked out not a lot can be said without a massive explanation. So, I would need to be on site to answer that question. Its no big deal but I dont want to be responsible...

OP, There was no pic showing on my screen when i suggested the obviously unsuitable Loblite Guard. I thought you were referring to a smaller, typical condensate pipe. Gas utilities use 2" exposed galvanised service pipes, and sometimes protect them with steel guards similar in shape to the...

Try: Loblite 55mm x 55mm Cable Guard @ TLC.com

Are you saying that the Binder is simply free floating over the joists, & that neither of its ends are resting on supportting walls for instance - further that there are no hangers tieing the Binder to the purlin? The Binder must be supported - long Binders are hung from the Purlins and...

After a couple of knock-thro's in a Victorian house, and you still have flat ceilings - then you are well ahead of the game. As above, fill the cracks, rub down the ceilings and paint. Its a simple matter to install a downlight or lights in a lath and plaster ceiling. The drop in the pic...

I'm not on your site, and I'm not a floor person by trade although i've done a fair amount of wood flooring work. So i'm not going to try and advise the details - you will have to do what i suggested above. Going over the upper floor boards with that sander might be more difficult than you...

There's no room on the left - go any higher and your above the FFL. Originally, there would have been further venting under the door threshold, & the frontage ground level would have been much lower. If the joists have been "cemented into the front wall", as you put it - then its almost a...