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The shower force 1500xt runs off a fuse spur, a normal electric shower doesn’t. You may have an old shower supply in the loft, if not a new supply will be needed from your consumer unit, also rcd/rcbo protection will be needed. If you have an old style fuse board, some of these are not...

the sounder will sound for 15-20mins, need ladders to stop/remove battery. disconnect all the rest as your going, remove the fuse from the unswitched spur you're pointing at first to remove panel supply

You need to find the source of the twin and earth cable (grey) and isolate there, normally an unswitched spur and then the panel is totally isolated

i read it as a dual mount box, with 1x single socket and 1x 5a socket fitted or something similar fed fom the lighting circuit

Are you serious?? You do know usb power output generally is 5v and that the sockets have a built in power supply? Connecting a usb to 230v would kill the thermostat and possibly you

Check if it has the asbestos rope seal and flash guards removed before selling it

How do you think there going to get a cable into the office block when you've deliberately cut their cables off and buried them? The intake could be in the basement with no way up to the offices now The dp is openreach property and is possibly the only route for the cabling and cutting it off...

Just because you ‘can’ doesn’t mean you have too. Gven that a grey conductor is available and is the correct core to sleeve blue, why would you not use it?

Black hasn’t been neutral since 2006, in a 3c and earth you use the grey as neutral sleeved blue Apart from that then you’ll be good to go

it turns on the off peak cu at the time set by the dno via the switch live to the contactor coil

could use architrave box and blank hidden behind the speaker if fed from a centrally located switch spur?

It's completely irrelevant how often i post on the forum, but thanks for breaking it down into monthly totals. I work full time and have a home life, forums come down the pecking order of priorities and spending all day building up my post count is not important to me. And i'll remind you of...

Obnoxious people don’t offer there wealth of experience and knowledge for free on a weekend do they? I also wouldn’t call 7 years as a contributor as new, which incidentally is longer than you’ve been a member. Perhaps you should have contributed constructively to the thread instead of jumping...

damm i was looking into buying a bonemeal 1g 1way switch as well, think ill stick to the traditional self extinguishing plastic now for safety.

this then needs sleeving and connecting to the earth terminal in the joint box so:_ 1. chop plug off cooker hood 2. fit joint box onto grey cable using line, neutral and earth into the respectable terminals 3.strip flex and terminate cores into the joint box matching the colours to the...

please explain how water can damage electrical cables, if thats the case then why don't copper pipes collapse when filled with water?? best solution:- find source of water and repair check earthing to switch is continuous and can read 230v between earth and live for peace of mind simply replace...

errrm

No! Junction box is also the lazy and unnecessary way of wiring, its a brand new install! simply pull the existing cable back to the new 1st light position and then install new cable to the 2nd,3rd etc position. except some fittings have high inrush startup and can trip mcbs

what exactly do you think the motion sensor is going to do plugged into a socket?

instead of cutting random cables and hoping for the best, you need to trace a permanent live,neutral and earth drop the rose from the upstairs lights and test, if no perm live then find the upstairs joint box and test then take a twin and earth to new attic switch and then a twin and earth to...