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So to keep the bathrooms nice finished look, where are you putting the pump? What a ridiculous place for a spur, on a staircase in the line of sight. Under the bath or cupboard where the pump is going would of been neater.

Should of thought of that before you got a “builder” to do an electricians job! This is a simple task for a competent sparky

why would you think it acceptable to install a 16amp bs 60309 skt then fit a 32a mcb? what size cable are you proposing to install and whats your measured zs for the install? Has your db spare ways on the rcd protected side, if not, your going to need an rcbo installed instead of an mcb as it...

Must be trolling, No body is that stupid or incompetent, plus hope you have earth conductors on that circuit or You can say goodbye to that metal switch

i cant see the joint been responsible for a slow line, the speed drop would be negligible if any at all, has it been wiremapped? whats the speed at the 1st router?

hows it all connected up? is that cat5e a 4pair ethernet from the router or a pair supplying the line to a router/pc?

the jellies are effectively an idc joint though, can't see how fitting an idc punchdown joint would improve it, did the line speed improve much?

Nope, never has been, only councils and sparks who don't fully understand insist on fitting them. The mcb supplying the circuit is the isolator

the t is indeed switch live, can take upto 10secs to come on, has it been left on for a while?

need to see the spur and the light fitting with the cover off

the cables from the light fitting should all go the the same side of the isolator switch as opposed to crossing over like the diagram, can you show a pic of the fan terminals please

need to see the spur as i believe its wired as an conduit system and the hand drawn drawing is wrong and a neutral goes from the spur direct to the neutral on the fitting and the yellow from switch 1 should go to live on the fitting, this of course needs testing before altering

or ask for the switch drops to be 3c+e to bring a neutral down

have you a multimeter to test between common and L1 for continuity when switch is pressed, this is done with power off

its wired wrong, looking at the instructions it says do not use l2 on retractive switch! hope its not fried it you need brown t&e and brown 3core into the common of retractive switch and into L at dimmer end black 3core into 1way at retractive and into rs at dimmer grey of three core into...

ok, you crack on then

Only if the ring has the 2.5/1.5cpc and not the older 2.5/1.0cpc! we all know how a ring final works and why, that wasnt my point, the point was the op stated that he will never have a cable rated less than the appliance rating, and by virtue has a 27a cable on a 32a mcb or 30a fuse

So going by the above statement, I assume that you are going to recable your socket circuits in your property as they will no doubt be cabled in 2.5mm with a max capacity of 27a yet are protected by a 32a mcb!

What are the manufacturer guaranteeing by specifying that cable? The appliance guarantee stops at the appliance terminals, if it was that important for the warranty then they would supply it pre flexed, or are they gonna insist on a 90degree cooker connection unit as well? A length of 2.5 or 4mm...

It's a loop in system, using the switch as opposed to the ceiling rose. Please don't tell us your going to continue using that obsolete and dangerous cabling, it's life expired by about 40years, the insulation has crumbled away exposing live conductors, the sheath looks to be lead, which won't...