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Yes - you can put it up by the hood if you want. Concealed cable must run only vertically or horizontally from the connector and switch.

Actually they did not but people thought they did.

Ok. No one was guided by such regulations. There was no such regulation. It was all down to misreading the regulations and you know what happens when one building inspector starts a myth.

:?: I have answered: So : So the one's are not guided by the regulations because there are no such regulations guiding them in that direction therefore the earthing is unnecessary. You are asking silly questions like "what if the opposite were the case?". It isn't.

Oh yes, sorry I was thinking you were now going to fit separate ovens.

Good. You are not understanding what is written. There are no regulations that require an earth conductor is run to whatever thing it is that does not require earthing.

Please pay attention. Parts which are earthed but do not require earthing nor bonding are earthed unnecessarily and introduce a hazard. Window frames etc. never require earthing. Only parts which are already earthed might require bonding.

Yes - but if you are fitting cooker and ovens you will need a couple of these: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AA45DCOP.html

Are you connecting the ovens to the cooker switch as well through Cooker Outlet Connectors? If so, you can connect the hood via a Fused Connector Unit to any of the other connectors. I like to have all the cooking appliances covered by the cooker switch but that's just me.

No. It made things more hazardous. No. It was because people misread the regulations which were the same as they are today. What about the rest of the time when metal parts are earthed unnecessarily introducing hazards. Were they? If they were, then why were cookers the only appliances which...

Please actually read what I actually write. If you want different answers then you will have to wait until someone lies to you.

Well, we can't tell from the internet what is wrong with it so if you can't find out yourself then you will need someone. Just swap it for an ordinary socket to see if that one works. If it does then... If it doesn't then...

If your walls are not perfectly flat the screwless faceplates will not fit properly and will look terrible

Possibly - but what is the alternative? Doing things wrongly on purpose?

I thought about it but I would have had to insert the ². :)

Firstly, 1mm² T&E will be more than adequate. It can carry 16A - more than enough for any derating factors. Secondly, what do you mean by two circuits? Just separate lights being operated by two switches? What were you looking for? It is just a standard light circuit. The diagram looks...

Mmmm. Ok. :)

Plus there are presumably two black wires in a connector in the back box. No, not neutrals.