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I don't think that is correct. After all how would it ever be damaged by heat until it was needed? It is something that should be corrected when work is carried out.

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I still think that is part of the thermostat internal wiring. There aren't any coloured diagrams. I only added "Red" because that is the colour used by the OP to terminal 3. Still can't see any blue sleeving.

Amended: NO Live - Red - 3 Sunvic to 1 Honeywell NC - Blue - 1 Sunvic to 3 Honeywell - if needed. NO - Yellow - 2 Sunvic to 4 Honeywell

Now I have posted that diagram, I think Eric was right. I will amend my previous post.

That doesn't make sense. I don't see any blue sleeving. I think that red is part of the thermostat. It is this diagram: but terminal 3 is Live - Red - in all the diagrams

If the NC is not needed then the wiring could be rearranged at the other end of the cable to include Neutral.

NO Live - Red - 3 Sunvic to 1 Honeywell NC - Blue - 1 Sunvic to 3 Honeywell - if needed. NO - Yellow - 2 Sunvic to 4 Honeywell

Get separate stand-alone PIR sensor.

Do you mean it had two wires from the meter to the main earth terminal?

Another? :unsure: Clearly nonsense on both parts. Are they not more efficient than traditional hobs? Doesn't that mean they use LESS power? So why would they need MORE? Even IF there were no DF on an induction hob, why would 10mm² be required?

No. The oven does not need a 13A fuse. If it were part of a cooker (in the UK) it would get a 32A MCB. That they state fuse in this day and age and a rating less than the cable supplied proves they do not know what they are talking/writing about.

Yes, but it states 13A fuse.

Fuses etc. are for protecting the cable. What will they do in Boschland and the surrounding countries where such things (13A fuses) are not used? If the appliance requires internal overload protection the manufacturer will have fitted it.

Ok. It's up to them.

It's up to you.

Ok. Typo? Should be two loop lives to new switch L (the two wires from old switch L1) and one switched live to new switch L1 (the one wire from old switch COM).

No, you said it was 3-gang. Ok - I think. Just looks complicated. Do one bit at a time. Several parts all wired the same.

HMMT - All Neutrals must be connected together. Then it might be like this: