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Does this help you understand better?

All Neutrals - 2, 3, 4 or more - must be connected together. IMPORTANT: Does the original switch control one or two lights?

Could be either. Above the lump might be too hot.

IF it is the supply. If they go to two lights that you now want to switch separately If they are loop in and loop out then no. Yes. I don't know what you mean. All Neutrals - 2 or 3 - have to be connected together.

Everything has an IP rating - even if it would be IP00. 2.25m is the relevant height - from the floor. Above that then it doesn't matter.

How high is the ceiling? From the floor level. What is the IP rating of the light and what did they say it should be?

Is the room above also your property?

Actually not until 12:45am (00:45) and 01:45 in the Summer time as I don't think they bother changing them. Then cheap rate until 08:45 now and 09:45 Summer.

I doubt the OP knew. I wouldn't call what Ebee wrote 'having a go'. Why do so many people on here object so much to mistakes being corrected? Surely it is better for everyone.

Never assume. Are you saying the current will rise with lower voltage?

The Wattage figures quoted for your appliances will have been given for 240V therefore 13200W/240V=55A. To calculate for 230V is not simply a matter of dividing 13200 by 230 because If the supply for these items is actually 230V then the Wattage and Amperage will be lower - that's how it works...

Can't be being 'pushed' out. :)

Not exactly. However the installation will have to be inspected at some time to make sure it will be safe. For a new CU an EIC - Electrical Installation Certificate - will have to be issued. How do you know that needs doing?

In this case the pull cord switch is NOT an isolator, just a switch and a DP one because that is how the system is wired. It is safe to work on the fan. Then they will have made a mistake - people often do. It is not done to work on the fan with the light on. It is done to disconnect the fan...

I would just have the normal cooker switch which would isolate all three appliances from the supply. I like one switch to cover all the cooking appliances but people's opinions vary. That makes no difference with regard to switches. No.

Strictly speaking - heat resistant flexible cable. 2.5mm² will suffice - or 4mm² if you prefer.

No, they fit on any type of back box. Well - you don't need to isolate them separately - you can if you want. You can split the cable at the outlet plate. You don't want FCUs for an oven.

Most people still use 6mm² cable but that is just habit and was for 30A BS3036 rewireable fuses. On the other hand, if you used 6mm² you would not have to worry about any larger cable in heat sensitive areas. You would have - unnecessary.

All your appliance can easily go on a standard 4mm² 32A 'cooker' circuit although you might need larger cable through some of the route - or route it elsewhere. I would not count the fan in the diversity but it is such a small load there will be plenty of room for it. So: Oven 2.4Kw Oven...

It usually comes down to whether a large bonding conductor is required from the outbuilding to the main supply.