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But the towel rails cant be coming on with the DHW circuit, they will only come on when a HW tap is opened. If they were on the DHW circuit they would have inhibitor.

Are the rooms heating to the required temperatures? If so I don’t think you have a problem based on the thermal images.

How would it look if you screwed a couple of wooden battens to the wall for the brackets to attach to, would that be sufficient for the top of the radiator to then clear the sill?

Radiators should be installed with 150mm between bottom of radiator and the floor in order to maximise the convection capability.

Wiser room thermostats only adjust room temperature. Timer control for HW and CH is all done via an app. I believe Tado is the same.

Sorry, finger trouble ignore the word "other".

Wiser and, I think, Tado aren’t combined thermostat/programmers. The other room thermostats are just that and the programming is done via an app. Wiser still functions with no internet but Tado doesn’t.

The picture doesn’t look like it’s the lockshield valve, the LS will be on the other end of the radiator and can only be turned with a wrench.

That’s good but it is costing you more in energy which is the opposite to what most people want.

You don’t want 70c water flowing around your CH even for short periods so IMO sticking with an S or Y plan with 55c flow temp for both HW and CH would be a better situation than what you are proposing.

With an S plan system you will have the pump in a short (3min) overrun when both motorised valves have closed, the ABV then opens to allow water to flow hence saving the pump. With PDHW the CH motorised valve will be NO so no need for an ABV if you have a radiator always open.

What about when the CH motorised valve closes? You will need the ABV then unless you have a PDHW setup.

Heat pumps aren’t about saving money so don’t think about ROI, after all who thinks about ROI when buying a car! If you want to do something positive for the environment, however tiny that this, then heat pumps are the best way of heating a property. What we need is for the ridiculous price of...

Unless switching the live has blown the PCB in the boiler.

Have you tried changing the batteries?

Is the flue close to an air brick of fan vent?

Boiler installers tend to do whatever is quickest and easiest for them, was this a Boxt or Heatable install? It looks poor and I wouldn’t be happy either but you will find that they have covered themselves in the t&c’s so as long as it meets installation and safety standards then it’s down to...

There are a lot of things that Drayton claim to be working on but nothing has changed since I installed Wiser 2 years ago.

I get the same issue with pipe banging when the motorised valve closes, I’ve never been able to fix it so now I just manually latch it open once the HW cylinder is up to temp. I keep neaning to change to a PDHW system but haven’t got around to it.

Generally, but not always, the TRV is on the flow and the lockshield is on the return.