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I should have worded that differently as I referred to the ZS, but I really mean the impedance created by the longer circuit overall. In this case, if there's earth leakage at the garage does the impedance of the circuit not affect the L-N imbalance?

Feel free to tell me my thought process is wrong, but does a higher ZS at the garage RCD not affect the amount of current flowing through the CPC compared to the house RCD in the event of earth leakage in the garage?

I was just glancing through to see if I could add anything and that was my first thought too. I have to agree that if the OP has no spare ways then moving the MCBs and replacing the garage MCB with an RCBO on the non RCD side would be the simplest solution, although this depends on the type and...

No problem there then. Just making sure it wasn't an industrial sized jobbie as I removed one from a customers loft once. I can only assume they acquired it for free...

No mention of it being a screw terminal JB and must therefore be accessible either :D

1 Yes. If it's protected by an RCD then you're covered for new additions. 2 Strictly speaking the ZS should be checked to ensure it meets the minimum disconnection time for the MCB, but for the sake of a couple of metres of cable and if it's RCD protected then you'll be fine. Just try to...

Could be worth investing in a Clamp Meter and measuring what's going through the the breaker and/or the hot tub. Any combination of hot tub & kettle, or hot tub, fridge & microwave could push you past 16A.

I did think about that when I wrote it, but depending on the size of the hole then a WAGO box may not be an option. I'll leave it for the OP to confirm what access is like. Ideally he comes back and tells us it's upstairs and can be accessed via the loft...

Depending on the size of the hole in the ceiling you may be able to push WAGOs through. They come in a number of configurations and would let you feed the 3 cores you need down to the light. Here's a 4 way WAGO as an example...

Depends on if we're assuming socket 2 is a single or double. Nothing in the case of it being a single. Like you said, the fuse in the plug would limit the load after socket 1 to no greater than 13A, so no different to using an FCU. Obviously nothing stopping us reaching 26A on a double though...

Definitely feed via an FCU if there's more than one socket while we hammer this one out. A bit basic, but you get the idea.

In itself I still agree, but we can't guarantee what loads may used on those sockets. It may be assumed that a TV is the only thing that the final spur (if left unaltered) will ever feed, but what if someone plugs in a Vac whist a kettle or electric heater is being used on the socket that feeds...

I do agree, but without reading back through the posts I don't think we don't know if the socket in question is already fused down or not. In which case I would be happier knowing that the extended socket is fused even if it is just powering a TV.

Yes. Technically it can go anywhere along the cable run. It's worth looking at the best place to mount it i.e. right next to one of the sockets

That's where you could do with knowing if the socket you're spurring from is on the Ring or already a Spur as you wouldn't need to fuse down for a single spur off a ring. If in doubt there's no harm in coming off the socket via an FCU even if it is just for a TV. If your junction off the socket...

That's not so bad. If the MCB's are fed from 2 different RCD's then one of the circuits should be able to be moved across so that one of the two MCB's is feeding both lighting circuits. The problem then is that if one goes off then the other will go off with it, even if there's a problem on...

No problem. The quick answer is an RCD will take up 2 spaces, have a test button & a switch and there will be up to 2 of them. An MCB will only take up 1 space, have just a switch and there will be several of them.

If that's the case then you won't be able to merge them. Just confirm that they are definitely RCD's and not MCB's.

Also you say - Brown is Live, Grey is Neutral Black is Switched Live But you then said you changed the grey and black the other way around. So you switched N & SL and it came on/off with the light? Are you able to get a multimeter and confirm which colours are L, SL & N?

Very true. I'm hoping that we can get the OP to find the breaker(s) supplying each of the lights.