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It's funny you should say that. Only a few weeks ago I had a guy with a house full of 12v downlights who decided he wanted to replace them all with GU10's. He called me in after having replaced the ones in his bedroom to find that they didn't work. Turned out that he had ran them from the 12v...

All depends on how it's wired. My hope was that if you've got 1 Live feeding one of the switch plates and 2 Switched Lives coming out for each of the landings, then it's just a case of moving the 2 Switched Lives together, assuming they're on the same RCD (a photo of the fuse board should...

I just classed it as a DIY question. Nothing wrong in general. It's just a will it fit question. The issue really is whether it is safe to do so...

I still fit them as part of my MO though and it allows the customer to turn the fan off at night. In this case it's not a bad way to hide a cable coming out of the ceiling either ;)

Are you sure they're on a ring main? Go back to the fuse board and check which breakers control either of the landing lights and show us a picture of the fuse board is possible. Also pop the switch plates off and show us pics if you can.

Is it possible to get under the floor above and run a feed from a light in another room where there may be a Live & Neutral?

I was going to say that it depends on the lamp holder as they're both 50mm diameter, but not necessarily the same size overall. It's not the sort of thing I would normally do as the 230v fitting will have a built in connector and cable strain relief for T&E. If replacing the whole downlight...

^^^ This is what I would have gone for. Try to run some '3 core & earth' from the lighting circuit to an isolator butted up against the ceiling and power your fan from that. It's worth asking them, but that just dictates where you get your supply from. Again, if you can come from the light...

No because those circuits are RCD protected. You would swear a lot though.

I think you'd be surprised how good a a twin LED batten is these days. Maybe just go for one 5 footer, or what ever size it is that's up there at the moment. Centralise it and see how you get on. You could calculate the lumens required by the area, but TBH a twin 5ft LED will do most garages.

Plenty of extractor fans have built in backdraught shutters these days. If it's a 4" fan you need then try the Envirovent SILENT 100. They also do a timed version SIL100T, which I have at home. It uses a plastic film on the exhaust side which blows out of the way when the fan is on...

Yes. Because if it's a DC motor and/or low voltage then I would be standing well back.

Are you sure that's a good idea?

Yes that switch on the top right is probably a saftey switch to ensure the cover is on. You may need to hhold this in while testing. Based on the photo you should be able to check for 230v between Neutral to Live (blue sleeve to brown wire) and also Neutral to switched live (blue sleeved to...

I'd like to think that no genuine spark did that. I wouldn't be able to leave it like that, it would play on my mind. An easy fix for the sake of a few wagos or JB and maybe a length of cable.

Sounded pretty helpful to me. I was only going to add by asking if it has two outlets as trying the 110v socket for example would eliminate a connector problem with the 230v socket. Definitely worth checking if you have power going in to the shaver point though, or if there is an FCU feeding it...

Doing that would certainly give you the access you need and cover the missing plaster. I'd add 20mm grommets at the entry/exit points to protect the cable too. It may just be that there's a join where the blue tape is, or the cable has come loose at the terminal.

ok, assuming the cables are 2.5mm they should be a ring then. Do you know how to check the end to ends? i.e. continuity between L to L, N to N and E to E. Do this safely BTW, turn the main switch off if you can.

What rating is the breaker?

^^^ This ^^^ 5 spare ways in your new board then, less the RCD. So that's EV, Commando and one other.