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I'm not sure what you can achieve until the spark and DNO can do their bit other than get answers to a few of your questions. Your tails are a bit long, but may be installed in such a way to mitigate this, although I would have liked to have seen 25mm tails on a 100A main fuse. It may be that...

That's assuming the 2nd cable isn't already a spur. What you can't do is spur off a spur unless it's fed off an FCU. Best check if it's a ring and if you're not sure then fuse it down just in case.

I know of at least 3 other sparks who think it's required. One even reckoned on a story of a spark being taken to court for not fusing the fan and it catching fire. I couldn't say if it's a true story, but we all know that fans regularly give up. I completely agree that by conforming to BS7671...

Is it though? I'd need to check the blue book as I always treated it like a shower isolator where DP isolation is required. My understanding of manufacturers instructions are that they should always be followed and that the mention of a 3A fuse is to reduce the likelihood of the fan catching...

I agree. I always install the isolator from the L, SL & N at the light fitting or junction box so the customer can isolate the fan without affecting the light. FWIW my go to isolator is a Click grid switch with fuse carrier as most fan manufacturers want it fusing down to 3A.

That's what I meant by L1-L2 reverse. I could have said L & SL reverse, but the OP may not have understood, plus we don't know out of L1 & L2 which is L and which is SL, so I simplified it as an L1-L2 reverse on a timed fan makes it run only when the light & isolator are on.

^^^ This ^^^ I'd open up the switch that's only working 1-way and start looking for a 3rd core. It's either missing or has come loose in the switch.

Is it a timer fan. i.e. is it supposed to run for a while after you turn the light off? If so, then an L1-L2 reverse will stop the timed part from working.

The strands were too thin for a start as this DIY'er had just used normal flex found on extension reels. Personally I prefer to use the cables for their intended purpose, but the main reasons would be the ease of t&e for pulling through & plastering over, plus the (slight) increased mechanical...

I've just ripped a load out of a house because a DIY'er plastered it into the walls to add sockets in a bedroom. It's not something I would recommend for any fixed installation.

From the description it sounds like the original socket circuit is a singles radial in conduit, but that someone has spurred off one of the sockets using flex. I could have read it wrong, but if that's the case then I'm saying the spurred socket should be in either singles or t&e depending if...

That's where it starts to sound like it's spurred off, which on a suitable breaker should still be fed via t&e if it's in open air.

My MO for radials in conduit has always been to run with 4mm singles (6491). I'd be using the existing cables to pull a full set of 3 singles through as the T&E will be massively derated in conduit, plus the flex is not ideal either.

If it were me then I'd head up in to the loft and lift the springs to drop the light. Then back down to the bathroom with the light hanging from the ceiling and attack the light from there.

I think I've used that brand in place of Ansell before. They seem ok, not too many false triggers and it has lasted.

From a quick read, your options look like:- find at which points the ring is splitting the earth & neutral and run a new cable between them to complete the ring. Or split the ring where E & N are missing and run them as two radials.

You're both right. That's how I read it too. It's hard to get perspective of distance from the photos, but as Conny says, if the light on the left is within 150mm from the corner then you can come down the stud wall and chase across to to the lights. Just looked a little far apart to me, but I...

But socket to corner?

Both switches will currently be wired in parallel, so it would just be a case of checking that the stairs switch has 2 twin & earths and joining them together so the connection from the room switch is continuous all the way to the light. i.e. brown to brown, blue to blue and earth to earth...

Bang in some grommets and finish off the conduit and jobs a good 'un. Fair play to you for getting stuck in. I think your advice is sound. I wouldn't do it though as I'd have to live with myself after taking a fair amount of money off them to do it right. I much prefer working for heathens and...