Search results

Yeah I know, how dare they :D The 3rd cable for the pendant was the loop out. Cramming multiple cables into a pendant is tight at the best of times, but when they're done in 2.5mm.... Slowed me right down. If he does it again then I'm gonna push them up into ceiling void with a Wago box and...

Ignore the cable marked B as you said you only have 2 in your light fitting, so you're not feeding out to the next light.

The proper way would be to run some 1mm Three Core & Earth between the 2 switches (cable code 6243). We can walk you through the wiring, although I'll Google a diagram for you. Probably best to post pics of the wiring at your switches though as I would like to see a switch wire going in to one...

Is it possible to run a new cable between the switches? That would solve it.

Had a builder last week say "I've plastered in two twin & earths as I had no 3C&E and just need you to fit the lights & switches". Turned out to be 2.5mm. He literally only had one roll of 2.5 for everything, including 3 cables for each pendant. Oh joy!

I'm guessing the spark ran out of 3C&E ;) On the plus side, your ceiling light is wired ok.

There's still an issue with the zone on the left side of the masonry wall there, albeit a small one. Would it be possible to chase down the masonry wall directly above one of the lights and pull the supply in from there, especially if you're then chasing across to the other light? Saves pulling...

Or give the wall a knock to find the noggins and just drill/cut there to help pass the cable down.

Yes if the the left hand light is being mounted on the stud wall where you intend to drop the cable. Essentially what you're trying to avoid is random placing of cables buried in walls. They should go between accessories, or straight from above/below an accessory. I don't disagree with that...

^^^What he said^^^. Look at all your other breakers for lighting. Chances are they're 6A too.

FWIW I'll answer it as if it were me doing the job. I'd be using 1.5mm 3183p or y for the hob (more out of preference) and plug this into the socket. Then I would add a cooker connection unit to the double socket via 6mm T&E, then run more 6mm T&E to the oven and charge you between £85-£125

Is mini trunking on the surface of the wall out of the question? Solves all of your problems with zones, chasing and plastering.

Yeah I get you. He's just got the choice of either, in case a socket doesn't reach where he wants then he could spur to another location.

I wouldn't worry about earthing them then. Just sleeve the earth and fold it over so it's insulated and doesn't catch anything.

If the supply to the junction box is a feeding sockets then you'd need to fuse it down, but if you can access a dedicated lighting supply. i.e. run off a 6A MCB for example, then just run your 1mm or 1.5mm T&E from there.

Agreed. That's the basic principle of what an RCD would do, although apprentices still forget this. That said, I get many a builder having a moan when I catch the two after locking off the MCB :D

As Terry says. Run your supply/switch to the PIR Live in. Then run the PIR switched live out to the first light and carry on to the other lights in turn. They'll all come on with the the PIR then.

LOL @ fluoresence. Could it be that the new light is class 2 and doesn't require an earth? In which case just make sure that installing it doesn't mean that you have to break the loop in your earth to your other lights.

That's not an FCU by the way, its a dual pole isolator. But like winston said, either stick a socket on there or swap the switch for an FCU and spur from there.

Thanks guys. Nothing like a bit of paranoia to keep you in check ;)