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More to do with what's the total heat load on the 15mm pipework section. As has been pointed out many systems run happy on 10mm pipework its all down to heat load and pipework length. 8mts or so of 15mm plastic shouldn't really cause a problem.

What your suggesting is called drop pipe very common system. Done many hundreds of houses like it (sometime new build contractors) mostly using 10mm back box system but of course 15mm works as well!.

As Madrab said very common. Pic is section taken from a oil fired system Worcester boiler had unsurprisingly failed at 6 years old. Unfortunately far from unusual.

Here's one I ripped out couple of weeks ago.

Prorad are owned by stelrad but they are made in Turkey. (Apparently on very similar production line to stelrad) Stelrad and Henrad are made in stelrad's factory in Mexborough Yorkshire.

Henrad are made by stelrad exactly the same but re badged for sale by independent merchants so good quality.

As someone that's been around longer than most I've had a 1/2 in tap amongst my gear for over 50 years. Very common for rads to need re tapping before compact rads came in. I believe the tap you need is called a 'second pass' .

Most of the old oil systems with 2 pumps use relays so the pumps can run independently and both switch live to boiler. If indeed you have relays you need to run the 2 switch live's from the hive to switch the relays.

Male iron to copper into steel socket - stub of 15mm copper then lever valve. The other option is just to replace existing stop tap head . Existing valve is made to bs1010 pegler still make them stop taps to that standard. With water off unscrew existing head and just screw new head in.

That looks like 1/2 in galvanised steel supply it's a 1/2 in socket with a Yorkshire stop tap screwed in ( 1/2 in bsp male x 1/2 copper ) The stop tap would have had head removed then easily screwed on. To replace 1/2 male iron to 15mm copper screwed into galv socket then I would use a...

If you mean can you have a pump for heating and a separate one for dhw yes at one point very common on oil systems . Wired with relays to stop both pumps running together. Low head pumps are available.

Pegler Doncaster now closed indeed a lot of equipment has just been listed on a auction site. Now just a distribution center left at Kirk Sandall. Watch the quality go downhill !

I would be looking for a sticking motorised valve.

If you get pipe where you can get blowlamp on it warm up paint clean with steel wool. Otherwise scrape clean use cleaning tape or similar check with mirror behind to make sure clean.

I'd cut through the timber each side of pipe then pull pipe out of clips forward. Cut clean extend as required solder out in open push back into place.

Mail clear pictures to showerdoc.com If parts are available they will be able to help.

They look like polypipe strap bosses for push fit. You shouldn't use any sort of lubricant on them water only when inserting into boss and pipe into adaptor.

I'm fairly certain the FP720 uses the common backplate, your old timer is totally different . Get a wireing diagram for the old one (ready available on line) should then be simple to swap .

I wonder if that was originally T B O E before the rad was changed? To sort it out as above.

Your flow will be limited by the alkathene which is roughly 15mm internal. Unless current access for changing pipework to 22mm is easy and you want to future proof for a possible water service upgrade?