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Hi all, internal wall was showing signs of damp (paint had gone darker, damp to touch). I took the lining paper away and found the plaster damp. I then removed the skirting board to find what you see in the pictures. There is a water pipe somewhere in the general vicinity of this wall, which...

Bit of an update on this — all the recent rain gave a great opportunity to stand outside and see what was happening. No water gushing down the valley and no visible leaks form the guttering. However, there was a long streak of water running down the wall. This was behind the guttering and...

Yes I did think that, as it must have been there for a reason, but it terminated straight on block paving and was causing damage. We considered removing it and having confirmed the rainwater from other remaining downpipe goes into a private drain, decided to remove. That drain has since coped...

Yes the issue was present long before then. I bought the house in May with the damage present and the downpipe in place. It used to deposit straight onto the driveway and flood it.

Neither would I

This pic shows the nearest downpipe. There was one and the same position but to the right of corner, but I removed it as it didn’t deposit into a drain (and kept flooding the driveway). The issue was still present before the removal. Next time it rains hard when I’m at home, I’ll stand out...

Hi all, as per title I have a leak at the bottom of a valley between two roof faces. It’s a problem because it’s damaging the bricks and causing problems inside. Initially I thought it was a leaking section of guttering, so bought a new 90 degree corner. Then I had the gutters cleaned and when...

It specified producing a 2mm bed. Unsure if that’s the same depth as a K2. I’ve come home today and it’s noticeably firmer with no ‘sticky’ sound under pressure. I think it’s just taking longer to dry that expected — the tub says 24-48 hours before use, the data sheet online says 48-72 hours...

So half the room is done. I drew the border first and it’s gone down nicely with no gaps. I laid dry first so could do some of the cuts around the edges (where it overlapped the marks for the border). However. I think I applied too much adhesive (doubtful as I used the appropriate trowel) or...

Never worked with this adhesive before so was unsure how workable it was once applied (aware of the waiting period). Good to know I can remove any excess. Yes skimmed over the countersunk screw heads. Initially I unsure if this was needed as I’d hoped the primer would fill them.

The thing is I’m unsure how long it’s been leaking (the house was vacant a year before we bought it) and having not taken the carpet up, I’m not sure how extensive the damage is. No evidence at all of a leak on the ceiling below. I think it’s been slowly dripping when used. Definitely a...

That’s really useful thanks. Just didn’t want to do this assuming I knew where the seal was made, then have to rip it all out when the leak sprung up again. Good tips on applying it.

Yes floorboards are wet and the joist below is very spongy. There is also brick salts and eroded mortar causing the lining paper in my lad’s room the other side to peel. For now I need to stop the leak, then when we re-do the bathroom it’ll be a floor up job.

Happy with all of that, I was just unsure how these seal. As I say a shower screen at my old home sealed from the outside, so that’s there I placed the sealant. Didn’t want to start this until I knew where the seal was made. I’ll take up the old sealant, clean and replace with new (I have a...

That’s really helpful, thanks. In that case I’m going to measure and draw a line set back from the fireplace hearth, do a dry run to check for straightness, mark up this ‘section’ to glue and then this will be my first run. Means I can work down the room from top to bottom, and no going over...

Wife didn’t like my suggestion of carpet and of course wants herringbone. I decided to go for the glue down type as I think this will stand up better to fluid spillages from the children. I’ve screwed down 6mm ply and filled the gaps with jointing compound on the joints. Before I coat with...

Hi all, not long purchased our new home and getting on with sorting out leaks, damages and problems before Winter. A problem I hadn’t immediately noticed was this leaking shower tray. Years ago I had a bath with a pivoting glass screen. To seal this I sealed the inside junction between the...

They’re faux-sash windows (only the top half opens outwards by hanging on a couple of hinges). If the epoxy negates the need for screws I’ll avoid them altogether. Again, think I had my wood filler head on.

Enjoyed reading that, really, thanks a lot for an informative post (especially tips profiling and mixing the filler). I have used body filler a few times so I think that’s why I was drawn to Ronseal. I need to go and weigh up costs, sources of supplies. In terms of splicing the timber in, my...

Thanks a lot for the advice and pointers. Never worked with the stuff so had no idea on what brands to go for. Sounds like the resin will be good to use for this work. Is it better than the Ronseal wood filler? The first two images show the average level of rot on most windows — it seems to be...