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Here you go.... scroll down for a variety of sizes, styles etc.. https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=wc+fixing

Therein lies the problem as the OP did not consider the parts as waste and whether they are £50 or not it is his/her £50 not theirs especially when it was not agreed and they are clearly making very good money on a job of that size. Personally i would have clarified with the customer what they...

Treat yourself and just change it, unless you have time to waste trying to fix it.... https://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-bathroom-mixer-tap-hose-polished-stainless-steel-10mm-x-1-5m/622pg

It wouldn't hurt to knock out more bricks along the top course, say one every 750mm -1000mm or so between joist spacings, as the beam is spanning everything and it will not affect it structurally. The centre beam looks like a wider timber so you may have a double course of bricks there so good...

You should be ok with the existing holes in the sleeper walls and check outside for the number and location of any airbricks to gain an idea of the ventilation and any crossflow and you may be able to add more airbricks in locations if you need to.

If you have 5 X 2 joists and should have had 7 X 2 joists then screw and glue 2 x 2 timbers to the 5 x 2's to make them the correct depth. Use the foaming glue and good quality 125mm screws @ 400 centres and you should be all good.

It is very unlikley you will pierce the pipe as those things are tough but you could protect it with more pea gravel to give it a bit more cover and take it easier with the wacker over it.

A run of eaves guards fixed flat under the soffit and set so the short slope faced downwards will give it some cover and shed water out and away from the doors..... https://www.eurocell.co.uk/fascia-and-soffits/ventilators-and-accessories/gep-black-eaves-protector-length-1-5m

This looks like the profile you need but may be better getting some actual dimensions to confirm before ordering or ask them for your profile as they do most types of eaves filler ...

Shouldn't really be an issue but you could use the round pipe lagging if you wish.

The spring loaded version accomodates slopes and allows it to cope with a rise of surface.

Other wheeled versions are available that are more suited to those surfaces... https://www.amazon.co.uk/heavy-duty-gate-wheel/s?k=heavy+duty+gate+wheel

I think you would be better digging deeper holes and a general rule i use is 1/3rd below ground and 2/3rd's above. That would mean using 2.7m posts if you have 1.8m panels but it is only a guide and you could dig down to 600mm and pack with bricks and more postmix or concrete to make it more stable.

You would ideally just continue the slates in line with the neighbours assuming the lats are there and if not it is easy enough to re-lat it through your side keeping the spacings between lats the same.

A simple Jockey wheel will solve it like the type below...

Sprinkle salt or slug pellets and it will keep them at bay but ultimately you need to fill any gaps which is often easier said than done.

Chocolate or Peanut butter is good or combine the two and go Nuttella, to save a fortune i would go for the cheaper version of any hazlenut spread.

Quite possible that you are right with the speed of water down the valley theory and would be worth fixing in an upstand, even just temporary, to check the result next time you get heavy rain. You could use lead if you have some or even just strips of plywood to see if it helps. I would also...

Or ladders.

Looks like whoever lived there did the loft conversion but for some unknown reason decided to leave out the staircase and the entire floor. Very strange but maybe they just wanted the height of a vaulted room which is fair enough. Assuming you have loadbearing walls then adding joists and a...