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If you only have an impact driver then put it on the lowest speed and take it slow and steady, you will soon pick it up.

There is a fine line between just enough and too much and it is just down to practice. If you set your clutch on a cordless drill you can get it right.

The walls were possibly built using taper edge boards and with the cracks being fairly uniform in nature it is consistent with a taped and jointed finish where a folded paper tape is run into the corners and filled over. They could be raked out and refilled using a scrim tape to strengthen the...

Wouldn't hurt to go a little deeper, just so the countersink is snug in the timber as the more surface area in contact with the wood, the firmer the grip.

I believe that anything over 300mm requires planning but it may vary from Council to Council so best bet would be to ask your Local Authority or see if their Planning Portal web site states what the rules are. Some things are now classed as Permitted Development but your Council are the ones to ask.

I would say Bold roll too.

Yes it is.... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitemark There are plenty of similar looking taps about, either new or original ones online or search the reclamation yards.

They look like shelf supports.

To get a level or flat bed over a wide area i have always use rails which involves setting in either a length of metal conduit or even a scaff tube a certain distance apart and level them up (if level is what you need or create the fall you want) and then pull a straight edge flat over them to...

As there is nothing above it then it is unlikely to be doing much structural work so i would say you are safe to remove it. Do you know it is brick as it may well be a timber wall ?

Friend of mine, called Willy which is not his real name but he was the only boy in a family of 8 kids.

1) You would be able to slip the piece you need in behind the pipe and either screw/nail it if you can or use a good glue/adhesive and it will be fine for the rubber roof to cover over. 2) trimmers will work fine here and more than adequate in your situation. I would use 18mm OSB and space your...

Here's one to get your teeth into....

Yes that can be done and based on the fact it is a narrow roof with minimum weight just double up the rafters both sides and the head trimmer in front of the pipe.

I would take the pipes out of the equation and elbow them as soon as you can after exiting the house and run them to the stack above your proposed wall plate. You then only have the main soil pipe to get around and you can fit wall plate to within an inch of it and the rafters can then be spaced...

This is a good site for wallplate detail although the trusses design may dictate where it needs to be placed. https://www.housebuild.com/construction/building-guidelines/roof-level/trusses

You are ok to remove anything above the floor level as the structural fixings holding the staircase will be into the floor joists.

Depends what you want to spend really but any blade with more teeth is always better in my experience and here are a few examples at different prices. https://www.toolstation.com/ox-tct-wood-cutting-circular-saw-blade/p70416 https://www.toolstation.com/freud-cordless-circular-saw-blade/p11300...

Most sealants can be easily smoothed and sealed with a wet finger or similar so using a bit of a soapy water mix, either sprayed on lightly or via a finger or spatula/smoothing tool, will do the job.

There is just so much wrong with that set up... 1) the right hand rafter has been cut short, so what is supporting it ? 2) it should be a double rafter, might want to check if it is. (same other side too) 3) what exactly is going on with the "membrane" they have used ? it looks like kitchen roll...